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Seconding Hive if you want a purely human perspective. It jumps around all over the hive from top to bottom, but a focal point character is the new planetary governor and just how much strain there is just keeping the lights on between noble families, the necessary legal bullshit, the necessarily but even more bullshit 'traditions', and dealing with the Jmperium (in passing, but those bits are neat).
It also covers Arbites, gangers, PDF(equivalent), local law enforcement (the Warhammer Crime novels also fuck for this), and the general workers both up and down hive.
You gotta give the first, like, hundred pages some patience but after the second/third time someone showed up I never had trouble remembering what they were doing.
The most fun bit was all the grimdark nonsense that every character doesn't even bat an eye at because that's just life. There's stuff the characters recognized as fucked up and then equally fucked up stuff that's just mentioned in passing because it's so mundanely evil.
Also a book without Space Marines and shit is fun sometimes.
You gotta give the first, like, hundred pages some patience but after the second/third time someone showed up I never had trouble remembering what they were doing.
The first 100 pages are definitely the weakest, but they're not bad, as I've seen some people argue. Abnett definitely enjoys a slow burn towards shit popping off, though. But I think the books are better for it overall.
Based bugs. I've been sitting on these guys for a while. I was going to attempt to paint the arms and guns on the sprue. After painting the bodies in contrast paint I decided I can't be bothered and I just wanted these guys on bases so I can hold them properly while painting. I'm experimenting with colors. I'm mainly going to mimic the box art but the weapons will follow my army's sky blue. I tried painting the mouth on one of them and I already hate the thought of painting them all. I might try again some other day but not today.
The contrast paint was done yesterday and there is a ton of it rubbing off just from me trying to glue the arms on. I don't think any paint is supposed to be this fragile but I need to go over everything again anyways. I own a spray can of varnish to help protect them, but nearly all of my models have something more I want to do with them, either shading, highlighting or whatever. Most of my models just have base colors on. The fancy ones were bathed in thin nuln oil. Can you paint over varnish? If you can I'll spray my models when they reach "good enough" so they are protected until I decide to work on them again.
ive never seen any hard confirmation but its a common joke and some of the furry type factions like beastmen and ratmen do seemingly have alot more effort put towards than some of the humanoid-factions. Makes the nogging jog
It makes sense though. The "original" factions are a lot more interesting than the GW ones, at least as far as lore goes. Saurian Starhost are something GW never made (but should have) and their lore is basically AoS/WFB lore, but in sci-fi, which is what you want.
Jackals are again, more interesting in terms of lore and aesthetic than anything GW did with Kroot.
Does anyone have a solution for wobbly bases? I don't know when or how this happened but Farsight's base is bowed pretty bad. The base only has primer on it so far but the model, rock, and all are already glued to it. I'm assuming my only options are a hairdryer on low or maybe a soak in hot water?
It makes sense though. The "original" factions are a lot more interesting than the GW ones, at least as far as lore goes. Saurian Starhost are something GW never made (but should have) and their lore is basically AoS/WFB lore, but in sci-fi, which is what you want.
Jackals are again, more interesting in terms of lore and aesthetic than anything GW did with Kroot.
I know 40k fans would be pissed, but I'd still find it funny if GW ported the Skaven over to 40k by making it so during the Endtimes in Fantasy they just fucked around with the warp and somehow showed up in the 40k setting, it'd be pretty fun.
I use Tamiya extra thin for basically everything. I also managed to use an xacto knife to slowly cut away and pry at the base. I ended up going the gorilla method, ripped him off and thus destroying the base completely. It wasn't a totally clean break away but good enough that I think a bit of clipping and sanding got him back down. Now I just need a replacement 60mm. I'll check if the place close to home sells spares. If not I guess I have to order a whole pack online.
I use Tamiya extra thin for basically everything. I also managed to use an xacto knife to slowly cut away and pry at the base. I ended up going the gorilla method, ripped him off and thus destroying the base completely. It wasn't a totally clean break away but good enough that I think a bit of clipping and sanding got him back down. Now I just need a replacement 60mm. I'll check if the place close to home sells spares. If not I guess I have to order a whole pack online.
if you use taimya then paradoxically you could also use it to debond stuff you've used it on once its set. Only really done that with arms and not bases, but thats a decent trick to have and i cant see why it wouldnt work
The first 100 pages are definitely the weakest, but they're not bad, as I've seen some people argue. Abnett definitely enjoys a slow burn towards shit popping off, though. But I think the books are better for it overall.
I use Tamiya extra thin for basically everything. I also managed to use an xacto knife to slowly cut away and pry at the base. I ended up going the gorilla method, ripped him off and thus destroying the base completely. It wasn't a totally clean break away but good enough that I think a bit of clipping and sanding got him back down. Now I just need a replacement 60mm. I'll check if the place close to home sells spares. If not I guess I have to order a whole pack online.
You used Tamiya to glue him to the base? The black plastic isn't the same plastic that works with Tamiya, I didn't think? If you used superglue, tossing the model in the freezer for an hour or so will make the superglue extremely brittle, and IIRC there are ways to crack superglue easier than others (rotating or left to right cracks it better than trying to pull it apart).
Yes. It does work. I use it on most models and it holds rock solid. I have had models fall off tables and it holds. I usually just brush it on it first then place it on the base. It doesn't melt the base nearly as much as the model, but I think the rough texture of the base gives the model a ton for it to grip onto.
Yes. It does work. I use it on most models and it holds rock solid. I have had models fall off tables and it holds. I usually just brush it on it first then place it on the base. It doesn't melt the base nearly as much as the model, but I think the rough texture of the base gives the model a ton for it to grip onto.
Can't say I've ever had that problem. Most of my models stick right on in a few seconds. I've had trouble with some that have very few contact points with the base, but even the vespid who is only standing on the tactical rock stuck right on. I'm not saying it's better than super glue or anything just that it's usually what I have out already and it works for me. I do also have super glue if I need it. Krazy glue comes with a brush applicator which I like because it gives me way more control over how much goes on and avoids big beads of glue.
I haven't had this problem mainly because I use a specific brand of loctite that cures clear. I also apply the glue directly to the feet or contact points of the models if I can.
Speaking of glue does anyone have any idea where I can get ork bits for vehicle kitbashing? I'm going to order two of these to use as Ork Trukks and I don't have access to a 3d printer, or the know how, to print bits off for the conversion.
You used Tamiya to glue him to the base? The black plastic isn't the same plastic that works with Tamiya, I didn't think? If you used superglue, tossing the model in the freezer for an hour or so will make the superglue extremely brittle, and IIRC there are ways to crack superglue easier than others (rotating or left to right cracks it better than trying to pull it apart).
Might depend with bases, I've done it with bases GW includes and its a bit of a struggle, but a couple days ago I did it with some Oathmark and WGA models and it worked like a charm, seconds to stick and when it dries its fine, and its with random chink bases I got off Ali Express
This very well could be true, I never had any issues with Star Wars Legion models and Tamiya sticking them to the default legion bases. But for some reason GW bases just hate it
