Rock Climbing

[onc]

I tried climbing in the low 80s temps recently. Fuck that. Even in shade, my fingertips couldn't stop sweating, greasing up the rock. Needless to say, I didn't send shit.

SOON is the annual Red River Gorge. So stoked, I am absolutely not ready. I’ve been bouldering non stop, zero endurance training. Plan on getting a 5.10a clean out at Gumby Valley though. I also have a 5.11a out there I really want.

What's the 5.11a? I suggested an RRG trip next spring to my climbing group, but it was met with snide remarks about "rural Kentucky". Man, it's so hard to find non-libtard friends in my area. I'll probably just plan the trip alone and try to find people to climb with on Mountain Project or Facebook.

 

[KneeGrow]

I tried climbing in the low 80s temps recently. Fuck that. Even in shade, my fingertips couldn't stop sweating, greasing up the rock. Needless to say, I didn't send shit.

I’m out here sending V5 and working V6 and V7 in 95 degree heat, use MORE chalk. I also have a makita fan and like 4 back up batteries.

What's the 5.11a?

Rising I’ve worked it once before but got super pumped on the roof.

I suggested an RRG trip next spring to my climbing group, but it was met with snide remarks about "rural Kentucky". Man, it's so hard to find non-libtard friends in my area. I'll probably just plan the trip alone and try to find people to climb with on Mountain Project or Facebook.

Every time we’ve been to The Red, we somehow end up meeting someone there that ends up joining our group. Two different trips with no planning we ended up running into the same super strong lady and climbing with her both times (she was my belayer on Rising oddly enough). I can’t remember if this’ll be our 5th or 6th trip out there but I know at least 4 trips we’ve “crag adopted” people for the duration of the trip. You could literally just show up to Muir Valley and ask people for a catch in return for a belay.

Also like, you’re invited if you can show up end of September/start of October. We’re camping at Miguel’s, climbing Mecca.

 

[onc]

Also like, you’re invited if you can show up end of September/start of October. We’re camping at Miguel’s, climbing Mecca.

I'd love to climb with some Kiwis! I already have a trip planned for these dates, but if you go to The Red annually, I'll join you next year.
The same goes to you - if you're going to WA or Smith Rock, hit me up.

Rising I’ve worked it once before but got super pumped on the roof.

Looks sick! I love roofs.
I hope I'll get strong enough to try Twinkie when I go to The Red.

 

[Jesus Swept]

I'm tempted to go back to the cloombing gym, but it's pricy, you have to lock in for a while, and I'm waiting on a foot/toe thing to heal that will absolutely stop me climbing.

Last time I went they swapped out some of the walls for competition climbs that were graded weirdly. I beat all of the close to the wall-sidle type climbs, and some arm heavy ones with big easy grips, but the more complex walls with footwork and positioning takes such a complex skillset, I could barely keep up with everyone else. One of the walls ended with this weird upside down finish where you hook your toes into the rock above you, flip upside down and grab the finish hanging on with your calves. If I could have reached that position, I could do it, but noodling around the first half of the problem without my legs giving out killed me.

 

[KneeGrow]

I hope I'll get strong enough to try Twinkie when I go to The Red.

A 5.12a, the idea of a 5.11a is already a bit intimidating to me. What you’re talking about is rope gun talk. Kudos to you.

I'm tempted to go back to the cloombing gym, but it's pricy, you have to lock in for a while, and I'm waiting on a foot/toe thing to heal that will absolutely stop me climbing.

If you’re still recovering from an injury let that heal up nice and well before going full retard at the wall. Yeah gyms get pricey, personally I shunned the gym and climbed exclusively outside for over a year. I am old now and require dedicated training time so I have a membership once more.

Last time I went they swapped out some of the walls for competition climbs that were graded weirdly. I beat all of the close to the wall-sidle type climbs, and some arm heavy ones with big easy grips, but the more complex walls with footwork and positioning takes such a complex skillset, I could barely keep up with everyone else. One of the walls ended with this weird upside down finish where you hook your toes into the rock above you, flip upside down and grab the finish hanging on with your calves. If I could have reached that position, I could do it, but noodling around the first half of the problem without my legs giving out killed me.

Idk if it’s the Uncle Ted in me or not, but after climbing outside as much as I have seeing comp problems in the gym causes me visceral disgust. It’s basically just parkour. That being said, a lot of the skills needed to do higher level comp problems do translate to outdoor climbing.

Doesn’t stop me from thinking it’s fucking gay.

 

[Jesus Swept]

Yeah some of the big jump problems with so much impact are fucking horrible. Welcome to snap city.

 

[KneeGrow]

Yeah some of the big jump problems with so much impact are fucking horrible. Welcome to snap city.

Wait until you catch a sideways dyno that removes your arm from the shoulder socket.


On a side note, any of you seen the various videos floating around of people snapping their feet from their legs on bad gym falls?

 

[Jesus Swept]

Spoiler: gross

I don't even want to think about snap city, but one guy's foot literally popped off at the ankle.

 

[Rock bro6 66]

I don't even want to think about snap city, but one guy's foot literally popped off at the ankle.

I've been to snap city myself! Foot hanging off, bone coming out, blood everywhere!

seeing comp problems in the gym causes me visceral disgust.

Same here. I also think comp problems that are just parkour are gay. BTW hope you have fun at RRG. I was there 3 years ago it's such a great place.


It's been awhile. I've been in a terrible funk, and it's affected my climbing. Haven't been outdoors in a few months, and just now getting back to the gym regularly. Hope everyone is well!

 

[KneeGrow]

BTW hope you have fun at RRG. I was there 3 years ago it's such a great place

The only time we’ve been to the red and didn’t have a great time was when a dude we knew was trooning out and was acting like a bitchy faggot towards everyone. I had a whole thing planned out to try and have a conversation with him about how we as his friends felt it was a bad idea, but he kept just being an obnoxious douche to everyone for no reason. After that trip he was dropped from our friend group.

No tranny faggots this trip. Couple of libshits but idgaf about politics.

I've been in a terrible funk

Hope things get better buddy.

Haven't been outdoors in a few months

Bro tempts are finally dropping for real this time. Highest is 81 for this week down here. I’m so stoked.

Made the mistake yesterday of pulling on my wife’s V5 project. Shit is so insanely hard, I hate her style of climbing. How the fuck can I pull on V6 slopers at 95 but the moment I touch her proj at 80 I just flop around?

 

[Rock bro6 66]

Hope things get better buddy.

Thanks. I'm past it now. Feel way better. Did unfortunately hurt myself bouldering at the gym last week. Doing a boulder that wrapped around the cave wall, slipped off a foot chip, and hit my ribs on one of those big white jug holds placed underneath it. Hate to say bad things about the settings at my gym, but I don't think those 2 climbs were positioned very well.

Bro tempts are finally dropping for real this time. Highest is 81 for this week down here. I’m so stoked.

Made the mistake yesterday of pulling on my wife’s V5 project. Shit is so insanely hard, I hate her style of climbing. How the fuck can I pull on V6 slopers at 95 but the moment I touch her proj at 80 I just flop around?

Yeah it's been consistently in the 80/70s here. But, let's be honest. Climbing in average temps is aid. If your not covered in sweat, near heatstroke, or freezing to death in the snow, you're not doing it right.
What's the style on her project, crimpy? I have the same problem slopers just feel better lol. Crimps, and even worse, sit starts absolutely kill me.

I was talking to someone during my short time at the gym yesterday, and he was telling me about some boulders in the area not listed on Mountain Project, or Gunks. Might go check one out today, and see what it's like. Unfortunately the person I usually boulder with fractured their tibia a few weeks ago lead climbing in the gym. I can still probably do it without her, as long as the grade is soft enough. Anyway, it made me curious if anyone knows of any unlisted climbs in their area, and how they went about discovering them. Not asking for specific locations, just curious if you've found any, and how you came across it?

 

[KneeGrow]

Did unfortunately hurt myself bouldering at the gym

What's the style on her project, crimpy?

A laying back arête, lots of pinching gastons for the right hand and left hand crimps. Top out is STEEP, you have two literal pebbles to pull on with each hand. Wife just gets scared on the top out, I can barely make it halfway through. I’m too large and in charge apparently.

anyone knows of any unlisted climbs in their area

Yes, and there is a LOT of drama in the southeast over it. I do not go to those spots personally because I’m not dealing with that shit. There are plenty of state parks and open crags to go to.

 

[Rock bro6 66]

Lol. I'm injured, but not seriously. Rib injuries are difficult, since any movement aggravates it. It's been a week and a half, and it's getting better. I can bolder again!

A laying back arête, lots of pinching gastons for the right hand and left hand crimps. Top out is STEEP,

Oh I love layback problems, and climbs that incorporate other high tension moves like gastons. Steep top outs on the other hand, not so much. That's the worst place to fall if your bouldering, so I don't blame her for being scared.

Yes, and there is a LOT of drama in the southeast over it.

Hmm, I guess I can see how there would be drama over unlisted climbs. I did go visit the boulder in question. It's in a neighborhood sitting right next to a house. When I was checking it out some local kids came up, and started climbing on it. I asked, and they said it wasn't part of the property, so I think it's fair game. It has a nice rough texture, and no visible chalk marks, so not many people know about it. I'm gonna wait till my buddy heals, and go with her.

 

[onc]

What do you guys use as a PAS/daisy chain?
I'm a big fan of Petzl Connect, so I got the newest version they just released. It's nice and compact and doesn't get in the way, but I tried using it on a multipitch climb and it was getting to my head. I would hang a thousand feet in the air and look at the stitching connecting the end of the rope to the lanyard and get this sinking feeling in my stomach. Obviously, it's been tested through and through. HowNOT2 had a load test done on it too. But I just can't bring myself to trust it; it looks so frail. I'll keep using it on single-pitch routes, but for multipitch, I'm bringing my old Dual Connect now.

 

[Rock bro6 66]

What do you guys use as a PAS/daisy chain?

I use a one made by Metolius. It's old, and I have to replace it. I do get the same sinking feeling looking at the connections on it, so I know how you feel. A friend of mine made his own daisy chain. I forget what he used though. Some type of thick rope. Maybe an old climbing rope? Might be worth looking into how to make your own if your unsure about commercial ones.

 

[onc]

Might be worth looking into how to make your own if your unsure about commercial ones.

Lol I'd trust any commercial product before trusting my own sewing skills

The Metolius daisy is the green one, right? I got it as a present and used it as an extra if anyone in my group forgot to bring theirs. Maybe I'll give it a go, I think having something with two arms won't be as scary.

 

[KneeGrow]

What do you guys use as a PAS/daisy chain?
I'm a big fan of Petzl Connect, so I got the newest version they just released. It's nice and compact and doesn't get in the way, but I tried using it on a multipitch climb and it was getting to my head. I would hang a thousand feet in the air and look at the stitching connecting the end of the rope to the lanyard and get this sinking feeling in my stomach. Obviously, it's been tested through and through. HowNOT2 had a load test done on it too. But I just can't bring myself to trust it; it looks so frail. I'll keep using it on single-pitch routes, but for multipitch, I'm bringing my old Dual Connect now.

Ver archivo adjunto 7872720

My wife and I have the same one as you. I get the same feelings as you. My secret, I'll just use quick draws for a pas

Is that a better plan, fuck no. It makes me chill out though so whatever. Fuck I have to get my sport climbing gear together soon. I have not prepared at all besides volume bouldering.

I use a one made by Metolius. It's old, and I have to replace it. I do get the same sinking feeling looking at the connections on it, so I know how you feel. A friend of mine made his own daisy chain. I forget what he used though. Some type of thick rope. Maybe an old climbing rope? Might be worth looking into how to make your own if your unsure about commercial ones.

I've seen people cut good lengths out of old ropes and make personal pas systems out of them. I know they're no better or worse than one bought outright, but something about them feels safer to me.


I'm a boulder bro however so idk I'm a retard. That being said I'll drop some pictures from The Red if I can figure out how to do it without phone booking myself.

 

[onc]

Another preventable death during rappelling. Tie your fucking knots!

https://gripped.com/news/alpinist-balin-miller-dies-in-a-rappel-accident-in-yosemite/

Edit: I found the video. You can see how fast he switched to rappelling to retrieve the stuck bag; he didn't even check if the rope will reach it. Please don't ever rush when you're changing systems and please make it a habit to always tie stopped knots, even if you're sure there's enough rope. Far too many people died because of this.

0:57

 

[Rock bro6 66]

Another preventable death during rappelling. Tie your fucking knots!

That seem to be the #1 killer in climbing. Almost every time I hear about someone getting hurt or dying it from rappelling.

Hope everyone is safe and doing well.

 

[KneeGrow]

Another preventable death during rappelling. Tie your fucking knots!

https://gripped.com/news/alpinist-balin-miller-dies-in-a-rappel-accident-in-yosemite/

Edit: I found the video. You can see how fast he switched to rappelling to retrieve the stuck bag; he didn't even check if the rope will reach it. Please don't ever rush when you're changing systems and please make it a habit to always tie stopped knots, even if you're sure there's enough rope. Far too many people died because of this.

bailin-miller.mp4

Dude was 23, basically a kid. Mostly did free solo, so no huge surprise he was running fast and loose with his rap. Unfortunate but not completely surprising.


The Red was…. Ok. Places we hit were mostly empty so no lines or anything. However, we saw a lot of troons. Wife and I hadn’t seen out and proud Tim’s at The Red before, shit was insane. Bro why are you wearing a sports bra you have pectoral muscles. Wife is pretty sure they’re just trying to be the crusher gf.
Only one person in our group was actually ready for this trip. We went as some larger group, but everyone broke off into sub groups with some cross over as people dropped out. The trad group had a blast, I’m too scared for that shit. Did not send the 5.11a clean, but did finally finish it so that was nice. I don’t understand how going from the 5.7 part of the climb to the 5.11a part immediately pumps you out. Shit had me absolutely fried out.

How are you guys? Send anything cool recently?