Rock Climbing

[LabourRace]

I forget if I’ve asked this already, but what do you guys do for skin repair? I mostly use Climb On, try to drink plenty of water, and take collagen supplements. But my fingers are still obliterated constantly, it’s quite frustrating.

I've just accepted everytime I boulder I rip the skin. It doesn't happen to me sport climbing, even outdoors, but when I get focused on a project, especially if there's a more dynamic movement, I'm going to shed some blood. I've tried a handful of lotions and the gold bond hand cream works okay for me.


I took a nasty fall and needed to take a couple of weeks off to recover. While going stir crazy, I've been spamming pull ups and push ups instead. Finally decided to boulder again. I'm so close on my first V5, but it just has such a wonky finish. It's been there a while now, and I fear that section is due for a reset soon. Going sport climbing in a bit to see how that goes. I'm excited!

 

[KneeGrow]

I've tried a handful of lotions and the gold bond hand cream works okay for me.

Reading this reminded me of some mechanics specific hand cream a buddy showed me a few years ago. Going to hit him up for the name now. I'll report back if I get the name/if it works.

I took a nasty fall and needed to take a couple of weeks off to recover.

Sport climbing or bouldering? Hope you didn't get hurt too bad.

I fear that section is due for a reset soon.

You better grind that fucker ASAP. I can't tell you how many projects I've had reset before the send. That's exactly why I almost exclusively outdoor boulder now. Only God or a piece of shit that chips the climbs can reset my projects now.

Today is rest day, tomorrow I pull on the V8 project (I'm 8 sessions in and can do the first move 1 out of 25 or so pulls). Kill me.

 

[Rock bro6 66]

climb 3 days straight pulling 8 hour outdoor sessions

There's your skin problem. Anyone's skin would be wrecked doing that. I know it might be hard, but climb less, even if just taking an outdoor day, and going to the gym instead.

I think this year I may throw down and go for competing in the non binary category in the local comps for this alone. Most of the trannies fucking suck at climbing anyways.

Do it! Total Tranny Death!

Fucking mutant

Thank you! But honestly if I was bouldering like you my skin would be ruined too.

You guys see that V18 might actually be a thing now?

Does anyone see a peak in this? A grade thats final. Nothing in the natural world being more difficult? What would it look like?

 

[Rock bro6 66]

I'm so close on my first V5, but it just has such a wonky finish. It's been there a while now, and I fear that section is due for a reset soon.

Take a picture of the boulder problem. If your friendly with any of the route setters or staff, maybe you can get them to put the problem back up at a later date.

Sorry for double post. I couldn't edit this into my other message.

 

[LabourRace]

Sport climbing or bouldering? Hope you didn't get hurt too bad.

It was lead. It was a comedy of errors with a multi-part fall where I fell on a slabby part of the climb and the rope decided to sneak behind my knee for the second fall. It wasn't too bad, just some bruising and uncomfortable walking for a few days, but I'm almost back together. It definitely didn't help I was getting pumped trying to clip and I was short roped a bit. I'm grateful it was pretty high up and all the gear worked.

You better grind that fucker ASAP. I can't tell you how many projects I've had reset before the send. That's exactly why I almost exclusively outdoor boulder now. Only God or a piece of shit that chips the climbs can reset my projects now.

Take a picture of the boulder problem. If your friendly with any of the route setters or staff, maybe you can get them to put the problem back up at a later date.

I'm so close I really should just focus on it tomorrow if I'm not completely spent from today. The top has an angle change from being overhung with generous but distant jugs and really fun flags to almost vertical with those large slopers and I can't seem to find the right hand/body position for that transition.

 

[onc]

I’ve got POWER but zero endurance

I'll climb 3 days straight pulling 8 hour outdoor sessions

Gee, I wonder why.

what do you guys do for skin repair

Rhino or FrictionLabs creams, but even after using them for years, I'm not sure if they make a significant difference. I always have at least one off-the-wall day between climbing sessions, so I suppose that's the main factor, as I don't recall the last time my fingertips were bleeding.

You guys see that V18 might actually be a thing now? I'm never going to get there, shit I'll be lucky if I break into double digits.

Just saw the news, and that's crazy! I was sure we're still years away from the first V18, so maybe it will get downgraded by Bosi.

Does anyone see a peak in this?

That's the problem with grades - there are no objective metrics to base them on. So I'm sure we will get into V20's eventually, but who knows where the limit is and how "pure" the climbing stays.

 

[KneeGrow]

Gee, I wonder why.

Rest and recovery is aid. Plus, I'm getting old and NEED those sends

I don't recall the last time my fingertips were bleeding.

Last season for me, the finger tips on my left hand aren't too good right now either. Imagine bicep curling yourself on a super low sit start, left hand on 15 millimeter crimp right hand in 40 millimeter 3 finger pocket. Throw left hand into a full hand slot from there. Brutal.

I was sure we're still years away from the first V18, so maybe it will get downgraded by Bosi

I can't wait to see the rage from it.

That's the problem with grades - there are no objective metrics to base them on. So I'm sure we will get into V20's eventually, but who knows where the limit is and how "pure" the climbing stays.

This. You've got body morphology, age, physical fitness, weight, how dialed in you are on beta, so many factors that make your V5 project their V0 warm up. Shit is insane and I'm here for it.

The top has an angle change from being overhung with generous but distant jugs and really fun flags to almost vertical with those large slopers and I can't seem to find the right hand/body position for that transition

Fuuuuck, I wish I could see so I could spray you down (this sounds gay without proper context). I love slopers though, best holds how large of a sloper are we talking though? You got your handful fuckers then you have your "why is this as large as my torso" guys. The basketball sized ones are fantastic for compression movement IMHO.

It was a comedy of errors

rope decided to sneak behind my knee

I was short roped

No offense, but fire that belayer. With or without belay glasses they should be staring at you intently. The only reason they shouldn't have eyes on you is if you come out of a roof (that they're below and belaying from) where if they move out from under it'll put an insane amount of rope into the system. Sounds like Ondra was your belayer. The group I roll with, we always have conversations about the climb, slack, belay device at the foot of the climb itself. Shit happens but it should only happen once. Calling out to your climber when belaying and seeing unsafe stuff (rope around legs that could cause issues) is HUGE. Communication baby girl, it keeps everyone healthy and alive.

but climb less,

Never. Since it's in season I also canceled my gym membership. Won't need it until the ticks are a problem again. About to pop a couple of Tylenol to increase my autism level and pain tolerance and pull the project before we get 4 days of predicted rain. Hopefully the project goes today (hopefully I get past the second move).

 

[Rock bro6 66]

climbing stuffs new vid
Has anyone seen this "plane" climbing stunt?

 

[LabourRace]

Sent it! There were high school kids fucking around on it after my first try and they gave me enough time to cool down to send it on the second try. Being annoyed with a crowd shouldn't be so effective.

how large of a sloper are we talking though? You got your handful fuckers then you have your "why is this as large as my torso" guys.

They're torso sized. I just needed to slap those fuckers like drums and snatch the last hold.

 

[KneeGrow]

climbing stuffs new vid
Has anyone seen this "plane" climbing stunt?

Yeah I saw it, I hate it.

Sent it!

My nigga! Great job.

Instead of climbing my project I did some highball crack climb. Sent, but at what cost? My fingers are absolutely cooked.

Edited for repetition

 

[Calvin Gabriel]

Seems like a nice thread. I'll join in on the fun.

I started to get into climbing about 4 years ago. I had some experience before and given my slender tall-ish build and lack of self preservation instinct I think I've been doing pretty well. About a year ago I also finally started climbing outdoors with a more experienced friend.

Same as other people here, I have trouble finding stable climbing partners, so I've been bouldering a lot recently which actually led to some nice encounters and a new friendship. Occasionally I'll use the auto winder thingy, but the selection of tracks there is quite limited.

Currently I usually go climbing twice a week and hit the gym 3 or 4 times. I feel great, though my cardio is worse than when I used to bicycle a lot. Two problems I have are that 1) I'm a complete wristlet and sometimes my wrists start badly hurting when I pull myself up and 2) my shoulder sometimes painfully pops out, which usually means a week off from climbing.

Someone mentioned before, that all climbing gyms are giga pozzed where they live. I haven't seen much of that here in Europe, though given how popular the sport is you tend to meet more liberal city dwellers than maybe you would in other sport communities.

 

[KneeGrow]

I'll join in on the fun.

Please do, this thread should be bumping besides the 4 of us cool kids.

auto winder thingy

I’m using this when discussing the autobelay forever now, thank you.

I'm a complete wristlet and sometimes my wrists start badly hurting when I pull myself up

Have you tried compression taping your wrists up? Obviously don’t make the tape so tight you cut off circulation, but some pressure may help. I have a buddy that has severe wrist issues and that’s his go to strategy. His wrists also primarily give him issues depending on hold type and what angle he’s hitting and pulling on the hold from. Give it a shot.

my shoulder sometimes painfully pops out

Christ, that sounds awful. Any particular circumstances when that happens most frequently? Like doing shoulder intensive movements or hitting mad dyno’s or something?

Someone mentioned before, that all climbing gyms are giga pozzed where they live. I haven't seen much of that here in Europe, though given how popular the sport is you tend to meet more liberal city dwellers than maybe you would in other sport communities.

It’s because you Europoors don’t free base Tylenol like we here in Burgerland.


Glad to have another based climber join the thread though. Hopefully if we trick more into joining to wrestle rocks.

Yo @LillyTheBestGirl do you know of Tradprincess? I saw in passing recently she might be semi openly based. Some trannies were seething about her around me. They didn’t say anything super specific just kept referring to her as a TERF. All I know about her is she’s insanely strong and recently got stuck in a headbar. Like, straight up jammed her head into a crack to move and was stuck for a hot minute. The video of her self calming to free her noggin up is so metal.

 

[Rock bro6 66]

I'll use the auto winder thingy, but the selection of tracks there is quite limited.

Yeah, some gyms have limited auto-belay selection. Tried any other gyms? Might have better selection. Otherwise keep meeting people to climb with.

I'm a complete wristlet and sometimes my wrists start badly hurting when I pull myself up

If it's just attributed to weakness, and not a medical issue I'd suggest looking into wrist strengthening exercises. Use the small 2-3 pound weights, and do wrist curls. Best bet is search for exercises on YouTube.
What grade range do you do on boulders. Did you just start experiencing those issues when bouldering? Bouldering can be tough on your body, especially if you're skinny. So always be careful about advancing too fast.

Please do, this thread should be bumping besides the 4 of us cool kids.

One of us. One of us. One of us.

Tradprincess? I saw in passing recently she might be semi openly based. Some trannies were seething about her around me. They didn’t say anything super specific just kept referring to her as a TERF. All I know about her is she’s insanely strong and recently got stuck in a headbar. Like, straight up jammed her head into a crack to move and was stuck for a hot minute. The video of her self calming to free her noggin up is so metal.

I had to look this up. Pretty cool she stayed completely calm, and worked her way outta it. That's the way it's done!

 

[onc]

Speaking on V18 boulders, Hamish MacArthur and Noah Wheeler are going to work on Sisu, and it looks stunning.

Has anyone seen this "plane" climbing stunt?

I love the climbing stuff that Redbull is sponsoring. The dam and the chimney multipitch routes were amazing. The plane was cool too.

I haven't seen much of that here in Europe

Maybe it depends on the region? Every time I see a video from a gym in Norway, the UK, or Germany, there are fag flags in the background. But at least you guys aren't doing non-binary categories yet.

my shoulder sometimes painfully pops out

I hope you visited a doctor or a PT to have it looked at. Use that famous free healthcare lol.

do you know of Tradprincess? I saw in passing recently she might be semi openly based.

I saw a couple of her videos, including the headlock, but I'm not really following influencers a lot to know.
She has pronouns on her profile, so I don't really see how she could be a TERF. Maybe the trannies are just jealous of her femininity and make shit up.

Speaking of trannies and influencers. James.climbs.soft is a somewhat popular boulderer from Red Rocks. Well, he's a total stinkditch licker - he even modeled for a pooner photographer once, and he liked multiple posts about trannies flying their flag in Yosemite. That's why I unfollowed him - I'm fine with political disagreements, but trannies is where I draw the line.

 

[Calvin Gabriel]

Have you tried compression taping your wrists up?

Yeah a friend suggested this so I'm about to try it out tomorrow. The wrist curls @Rock bro6 66 suggested also sound like a good idea. I've been trying to put on some weight, so I'm hoping in time that might help as well.

I think it's partially caused by me doing bench presses 3x a week. Maybe I can figure out a better grip or something.

Any particular circumstances when that happens most frequently?

It usually happens when I put pressure on my right arm while it's in the 90-135 degree range vertically and in-line with the torso horizontally (ie the arm is extended to the side, not in front of me). I can feel a slight downward movement of the arm joint inside my shoulder accompanied by a crunch sensation followed by varying degrees of pain. When I'm lucky it's fine again in ~2 days, when less lucky it takes about a week.

Yeah, some gyms have limited auto-belay selection. Tried any other gyms? Might have better selection.

I went to several gyms over the years and it's pretty much the same everywhere, at least where I live.

If it's just attributed to weakness, and not a medical issue I'd suggest looking into wrist strengthening exercises. Use the small 2-3 pound weights, and do wrist curls. Best bet is search for exercises on YouTube.

That's a good idea! I'll try it out and report back after some time.

What grade range do you do on boulders. Did you just start experiencing those issues when bouldering? Bouldering can be tough on your body, especially if you're skinny. So always be careful about advancing too fast.

Yeah, I don't recall it ever happening during regular climbing. Boulders just tend to be much more intense in this way. The highest difficulty boulders I finished were 7A+ (we use the FB grade; I think that's something like a V7) and I can do most 6Cs.

Maybe it depends on the region? Every time I see a video from a gym in Norway, the UK, or Germany, there are fag flags in the background.

Well, I'm Czech - the westernmost part of the former eastern bloc. People here like to LARP as being western European (same as Mexicans getting mad about being called central or south American), but I would hope we're not as down bad with the faggotry and general globohomo lol.

I hope you visited a doctor or a PT to have it looked at. Use that famous free healthcare lol.

I plan on going, but still haven't because retard.

 

[onc]

I plan on going, but still haven't because retard.

Well, don't wait too long! The older you get, the harder fixing your body will be

I'm Czech

I've been to Prague a couple of times - loved it. I know you guys says trdelnik is a tourist trap, but I couldn't enough of it.

 

[KneeGrow]

She has pronouns on her profile

I missed this. To be honest I don't really follow her (boulder bro) I just know of her as some insanely strong lady.

I'm not really following influencers

Same. I'm sure I've sperged before about just watching beta videos when I rage at not figuring a problem out (or trying to find proper lines).

he liked multiple posts about trannies flying their flag in Yosemite

I'm so glad that "non binary" bitch that helped put the troon flag lost her dream job. Here's to her future at Starbucks!

 

[KneeGrow]

Yeah a friend suggested this so I'm about to try it out tomorrow.

How did that go?

I'm sorry for the double post, I'm a phonefag and accidentally hit post and I couldn't edit in the rest of my replies because I'm a retard.


Went to pull on my project with my oldest child, of course there was a mtf with fried dyed hair pulling on it. What made it worse was I had to change a diaper, I made a shield wall with my pads so he couldn't even look our way. No telling what those freaks are into. God they're around more and more frequently. I can handle cringe "muh partner" libs no problem but this shit drives me up the wall.

 

[onc]

I'm so glad that "non binary" bitch that helped put the troon flag lost her dream job

Word. I'm really sick of these freaks using El Cap for their protests - imagine finally taking a trip to Yosemite, and you're greeted with a troon or a palestine flag.

No telling what those freaks are into. God they're around more and more frequently. I can handle cringe "muh partner" libs no problem but this shit drives me up the wall.

I'm with you. They do seem to gravitate towards kids. Multiple gyms in my area have a climbing team, and each of them has at least one tranny or "non-binary" coach. I don't know how parents are okay with that.

 

[KneeGrow]

Multiple gyms in my area have a climbing team, and each of them has at least one tranny or "non-binary" coach.

Have a former buddy that trooned out that’s a team kids couch. Of course that gym has the tranny flag hanging up there. Setting there sucks balls, they call it “equitable setting”. They’ll put up what’s marked as V11, but a V1 climber could do almost everything but one move that’s supposed to give it the V11. I still don’t understand why dude trooned out. I know his sister was a pooner a long while before his turn to the sickness. I think the primary reason the parents are “ok” with it is because typically team kids have well off parents. That affluence makes them more susceptible to being absolutely retarded, they think they know better and aren’t totally setting their kids up for failure. But then again, most team kids from my experience have parents with zero interest in climbing and use it as babysitting. Breaks my heart.

@Calvin Gabriel did you died?


Rain rain go away, I have a V8 to crush.


I have a fun question for you guys regarding climbing that’s absolutely retarded. Intended beta vis-à-vis what the FAist did to what is actually possible. I’ve been getting into “heated” arguments with people at some crags recently regarding holds that are inline with a problem being off or not. The type of shit where people say “well the guy that FA’d this didn’t use this hold thats immediately in your face and that’s what gives it the harder grade” type shit. I keep screaming that makes it an eliminate, which is gay, so downgrade it. What do you all think? Obviously it’s one thing to go completely off route, but telling me the jug bucket in my face is off is peak dumb. Right now my two options for V8’s have this problem. I’ve ignored so many cool looking lines for this exact reason.