Rock Climbing

[Calvin Gabriel]

How did that go?

@Calvin Gabriel did you died?

Nope, still around Well, I got off late from work that day (didn't go on Sunday as I had planned originally) and didn't have time to go buy the tape. So instead I went bouldering without it and it wasn't great. I did manage to finish some nice tracks before the pain became too annoying though.

Sorry, I didn't want to give this lame update and thought I'd wait until I've actually managed to organize my time enough to buy the tape. Btw I have absolutely no idea how people with kids find the time to do anything. I don't even work full time and still feel like I'm constantly behind

I have a fun question for you guys regarding climbing that’s absolutely retarded. Intended beta vis-à-vis what the FAist did to what is actually possible. I’ve been getting into “heated” arguments with people at some crags recently regarding holds that are inline with a problem being off or not. The type of shit where people say “well the guy that FA’d this didn’t use this hold thats immediately in your face and that’s what gives it the harder grade” type shit. I keep screaming that makes it an eliminate, which is gay, so downgrade it. What do you all think? Obviously it’s one thing to go completely off route, but telling me the jug bucket in my face is off is peak dumb. Right now my two options for V8’s have this problem. I’ve ignored so many cool looking lines for this exact reason.

When I climb outdoors I tend to disregard the "official" routes to some degree, if it makes the sesh more enjoyable for me. The fear factor makes it so that I wouldn't be able to go to my limit anyways, so I keep that for the indoors where the tracks are neatly defined.

 

[KneeGrow]

Btw I have absolutely no idea how people with kids find the time to do anything.

I neglect sleep

didn't have time to go buy the tape

Does your gym not sell tape?

When I climb outdoors I tend to disregard the "official" routes to some degree

My particular kind of autism requires that I do the “proper” route/problem. It gives a completionist feel to it. Obviously whatever beta works, works. But you have a start, a general line, and the finish. If you go wildly off it’s just something different, which is fine, but then grading gets weird and I’m too lazy to come up with new shit.

 

[onc]

But you have a start, a general line, and the finish.

I'm with you here 100%. If a new beta is found, it's fine to downgrade the line. Same with holds breaking off - whether it makes the problem easier or harder, adjust the grade.
Puritism feels like spiritual gumbies holding to their precious hard ascends.

 

[Calvin Gabriel]

Sorry, I didn't want to give this lame update and thought I'd wait until I've actually managed to organize my time enough to buy the tape.

So I finally did today and man this is SO much better. On some tracks it still hurt a little, but most of the ones I wanted to do were fine. Finished the session without having my mood ruined by the pain, which used to turn me off from going for the past few weeks. Climbed some nice 7As too!

Does your gym not sell tape?

They do as it turns out. I've never used it before, so it didn't occur to me.

 

[KneeGrow]

I'm with you here 100%. If a new beta is found, it's fine to downgrade the line. Same with holds breaking off - whether it makes the problem easier or harder, adjust the grade.
Puritism feels like spiritual gumbies holding to their precious hard ascends.

Bruh the name change gas lit me into thinking a new person joined in.

So I finally did today and man this is SO much better

Hell yeah, now we just have to figure out what’s up with your shoulder detaching.

I’ve finally reached a high point on my project V8. Very stoked, once I can link it all up from the start it’ll be a cruise. Need the humidity to go down however and all the recent rain/sleet/snow isn’t helping
It also doesn’t help that it’s shredding the skin on my left hand either. Both the finger tips and back of my hand. You start sitting matched double undercling, bicep curl yourself, and throw for a left hand slot. The slot is destroying me, and somehow the left hand finger lock after that is pretty “chill” on the skin.

I’m also starting to feel my finger joints which has me mildly worried (I’m quickly approaching 40 ). Driving to the crag yesterday I felt “tightness” in my right hands middle finger middle knuckle. Had me very concerned, still went straight to the project like a dipshit. Felt fine while pulling on it and feels fine now thankfully. Maybe I ought to take it more chill, once the projects over.

Check this boulder out. All the lines on it are absolutely amazing. Always worth the 1 1/2 to 2 hour drive.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/127351858

 

[Calvin Gabriel]

"The cripple thread (+occasional rock climbing discussion)"

 

[onc]

I’m also starting to feel my finger joints which has me mildly worried

A buddy of mine tore his tendon bouldering too much, so don't make the same mistake.
But what the buddy also learned during recovery that loading the fingers mildy (pin lifts) speeds up the healing. He's went back to crushing in about six months.

Check this boulder out. All the lines on it are absolutely amazing. Always worth the 1 1/2 to 2 hour drive.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/127351858

Hey, isn't that on the golf course that Climbing Stuff shot one of his videos on?

The cripple thread

It do be like that

 

[SpookyGuy1990]

Glad I stumbled across this thread I did tower climbing for awhile and enjoyed it but I enjoyed recreation alot more my exp with outdoor climbs is very limited. I'm used to weight training though I'd like recommendations for some routines to both improve my climbing and lose weight as I have become a HUSKY lad (200lbs 6'2) in my 2 yr hiatus. thankfully working in heavy industry as a repairman welder has upped my grip pretty well. I am about an hr to SLC for point of reference, I was in georgia last time I climbed the overlap of retard Troon shit is impressive in climber clubs is honestly shocking started getting back into it after reading the climber
I love the freeing aspect of it the ability to move sometimes I think its the closest man will get to having wings on his back

 

[LabourRace]

I am about an hr to SLC for point of reference,

You're in luck! There are many good climbing gyms in that area, and there are many outdoor routes and boulders in all directions from Salt Lake, but good luck doing that with it getting colder with very few daylight hours. As for routines, I'd say just start climbing for now and have fun. You will suck ass regardless if you're struggling up a 5.8 or V1 with awful foot and body placement. If you want to do roped climbing (top rope) you'll need a buddy and get belay certified, or you can make a threesome with two others that are certified and rotate who climbs. There are often partner finder events where you don't need any of that and you just need to show up. Otherwise you can boulder. The gyms there that I'm familiar with in that area all have good bouldering sections.

I might need to read that; looks interesting.

 

[KneeGrow]

"The cripple thread (+occasional rock climbing discussion

Sounds like….. aid.

Hey, isn't that on the golf course that Climbing Stuff shot one of his videos on?

I had to look this up after you mentioned it, yes. The boulder field (which from front to back runs half a mile of dense field) goes from the 18th green to half way into the 17th fairway. 17th green is completely surrounded by boulders, and a bunch of really awesome stuff from the 18 tee box to about half way 18 fairway. The fairway boulders themselves are normally only allowed to be climbed when that section of the course is closed for special climbing events. Or you do what the cool kids do and just show up at night to climb the fairway boulders. The approach is ridiculously chill (from parking lot to first boulders is a 3 minute walk) and the climbing generally is amazing. Around Chattanooga generally there are dozens of established fields and countless spots for sport, trad, and untapped potential. I want to move there but it’s being flooded with west coast hordes driving prices up and developing it into cookie cutter shit heaps.

I have become a HUSKY lad (200lbs 6'2)

I forget his name, but there’s a professional football player for the Jets that can climb V6 outside that is contractually obligated to be 350 pounds. Find a better excuse my guy.

Honestly hangboard and pull ups though. Easy into it, don’t go full retard.

good luck doing that with it getting colder with very few daylight hours.

Bruh, head lamps and a buddy heater go a long way. I rock a buddy heater with 2-3 spare propane tanks, one will last 4 hours on low or two on high. But we have bulletproof sandstone/granite out here in the east.

 

[SpookyGuy1990]

I forget his name, but there’s a professional football player for the Jets that can climb V6 outside that is contractually obligated to be 350 pounds. Find a better excuse my guy.

Honestly hangboard and pull ups though. Easy into it, don’t go full retard.

I'm not using it as an excuse to not do it I still want to climb its just going to be easier to climb at 170 (my weight when I was tower climbing) than now though I'm pretty sure I've gained muscle with my fat. I also plan on going on a hiking trip the year after the next so I need to get trimmer anyway. I think I've got eyes on an afforable indoor gym though it is an hr away. Saw a Black diamond starter kit on amazon for 100 bucks includes, chalk bag, harness and belay. half tempted to eat an up tick in price and go to a store to get the shoes so I can try them on. whats the sizing advice on those I wear 12.5's for standard shoes. I would also like any reccomendations for bluetooh earbuds that work Also If thats true thats nuts!

I might need to read that; looks interesting.

It opens as a standard sports manga and explores themes like self-isolation, the chase for higher purpose,dependency, and love. really interesting read. I like the abstract depictions of concepts the artist uses, If you liked whiplash its a happier version of that

 

[KneeGrow]

Black diamond starter kit on amazon for 100 bucks includes, chalk bag, harness and belay

Just don't get black diamond shoes, they're absolute shit. For a belay device I would suggest an auto break device, something like a grigri or (my preference) a jul. Grigri's have a bit of a learning curve while the jul is mostly idiot proof and works mostly the same way as an ATC. DO NOT use an ATC, if you aren't extremely vigilant while belaying it is very easy to drop your climber. Most gyms don't even allow their use.

go to a store to get the shoes

So climbing shoes size similar to women's clothing in that it's completely fucked and makes no sense. You're better off going to a store and trying them on, then ordering them online for a small price decrease. What sucks about that plan, is most places (REI or local outfitters) only carry a sliver of what's actually available online as far as brands go. Since you're just getting back into climbing cheap generic starter shoes will be fine. It isn't like you'll be doing heel toe cams too soon. Sizing, depends on if you have wide or slender feet along with if  you want a tight or just snug shoe. Be sure they aren't loose. Personally I go half a size down from street shoe size in my Madrock's. By the time they're fully broken in they're nice and comfortable.

A lot of gyms also have little gear shop areas so that'll help you out a lot too. They normally knock the price down like 10% if you're a member. Now that I think of it as well, if you're climbing around Salt Lake you'll be going to gyms that have some of the strongest climbers in the States.

Please report back on the climbing gym degenerates from out there, I can only imagine.

bluetooh earbuds

I seen a guy at my old gym in South Carolina do hand stand push ups rocking fuckin car ear head phones. Dude was so jacked too, not slender jacked like beefy jacked.

 

[onc]

So climbing shoes size similar to women's clothing in that it's completely fucked and makes no sense.

I second that. I downsize my La Sportiva's by 1-1.5 sizes, while I have to upsize Scarpa's. It makes no sense.

Finding your climbing shoes is a multi-year long project, because you need to find something fitting your foot shape. I've been through a dozen different pairs over the last three years, and I still haven't found what I'm looking for.
So @SpookyGuy1990, just like @KneeGrow said, just go to a store and try everything and see what feels good. You can also raid some used gear store if you find any - a lot of them have good deals. And since you're in SLC area, look out for events or competitions - a lot of the times local climbing teams would host sales to raise funds - I got a couple of freshly resoled pairs for dirt cheap that way.

Speaking of competitions. Did you guys see the absolute faggotry that is the IFSC rebranding?

From


to Autism Speaks

 

[KneeGrow]

Speaking of competitions. Did you guys see the absolute faggotry that is the IFSC rebranding?

From
Ver archivo adjunto 8287832

to Autism Speaks
Ver archivo adjunto 8287834

While it does look autistic as fuck, the first one looks like some UN globohomo shit.

I think what I hate most about the new one is being able to recognize speed climbing holds. Speed climbing is a joke, it’s like speed running video games. You muscle memorize the sequence and that’s it. There’s no cleverness or morpho beta or pure power to it. It’s the Karl Jobst of climbing styles.

 

[KneeGrow]

Merry Christmas you guys.

 

[onc]

Merry Christmas, crushers. May you keep your gains through the festivities.

 

[onc]

What's your 2025 recap?
In bouldering, I sent multiple V7's in the gym and improved a lot on overhangs (but lost my slab skills). Not much happened outdoors, just sent a couple V4's projects from the previous season.
In ropes, I finally broke into 5.12a grade in the gym - lots of bouldering helped me get enough strength. The downside is, I lost plenty of endurance, but I'd rather climb two or three 5.12a's in a session than ten 5.11d's.

Speaking of V7's, I'm trying to send another one before New Year's. I picked the only V7 that seems doable - on every other one, I can't do more than one or two moves from the start. Which begs the question, is the one I picked actually a V6, or does it just suit style?

 

[KneeGrow]

What's your 2025 recap?

Highlight is outdoor V8 achieved, day after Christmas
Otherwise overall I’ve mostly got to tick off a bunch of stuff that that’s kicked my ass for a few years. Nothing crazy high grade (V1’s through V4’s) that just have super weird movements/betas. Barely did any sport climbing this year. It was nice to do the annual RRG trip, even if all I did was work a single 5.11a and didn’t even send that clean.

Funny considering that personally it’s been a very bad year. Lots of not great things happened, can’t wait for it to be over.

Hope you all had a better year than me. Happy New Year you crushers.

 

[onc]

Funny considering that personally it’s been a very bad year. Lots of not great things happened, can’t wait for it to be over.

Damn, man. I hope everything works out and gets better. Take care!

 

[KneeGrow]

@LabourRace @Calvin Gabriel @SpookyGuy1990 @Rock bro6 66

What did you guys manage to pull off this year of our Lord sneed of 2025?

What’re you guys hoping to achieve in 2026? I’ve seen someone I know of who isn’t that much stronger than me send an incredibly soft V10. I might try and go fuck with that pretty soon. I never had hopes of being a double digit climber, but if I can pull that off it be kind of cool. Maybe do some more sport climbing come spring. Kind of hoping my oldest will let me put em in the kids harness and maybe at least swing around on some over hung stuff.


Anyone up to anything cool? I always feel like I’m just sperging about shit I get up to and feel kind of like a dick head.

Spoiler: Edit

Since January 5th of this year we have add 8 pages to the thread