Cats' Leather and Knives - Everything Finally in One Place (that isn't Random Pics and Gifs)

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What should I build a Crocodile Leather sheath for? Answers are designs I am currently interested in

  • Replica of the Crocodile Dundee Bowie

    Votos: 8 36.4%
  • Bowie of some other kind (Alamo, Musso, Vaquero, Coffin Handle, etc.)

    Votos: 4 18.2%
  • Antler-handle Bowie

    Votos: 8 36.4%
  • Antler-handle knife of some other kind

    Votos: 3 13.6%
  • OTHER (leave your suggestions on what you'd like to see?)

    Votos: 2 9.1%

  • Total de votantes
    22

Cats

Deceased
True & Honest Fan
kiwifarms.net
Registrado
17 de Abr, 2020
Hey it's me, Cats. For those who don't know already, I began learning how to do leatherworking and knife handles a couple of months ago. I originally posted some of the things I was working on in the General thread, "Random Pics and Gifs". I foolishly thought my project would be done quickly and require just a single update from beginning to end. This was not the case. It turned out to be far more work than I imagined, complete with lots of learning, mistakes, problems, waiting on deliveries, getting the wrong sizes of things, waiting some more. But it has also been lots of fun. So, it is time to stop sharing progress on this in that other thread and just make my own for this stuff already. To those of you who have already read some of this over there, sorry but I had to move it eventually.

I chose to post this here because the "Art" section seemed to be the most appropriate.

P.S. I am very interested in kiwi opinions, ideas, and thoughts on the things I am making and building. I would love to hear what YOU would like to see. So, please share your thoughts with me :]

Before we continue, just a little warning: it's kind of a long thread. I have been working on this little by little alongside this leather stuff for awhile now, the thread is about a month or two in the making and is likely full of typos or weirdly placed text so I will try and edit as I go. I'm gonna attempt to make it less "expansive" by spoilering certain blocks of related info. I hope it isn't too cumbersome. If you choose to read any of it, thank you so much for following along with me on my little crafting adventure. If not I still love you anyway kiwi

Let's just start all this over by listing out what I am working with here. I have a matching pair of 8" long (bladed), 12.5" long (overall) clip-point bowies made of what I think is D2 tool steel but I am not 100% sure. It could be J2. These have impala-jigged buffalo horn handles that I handmade some neat little rivets for out of brass snap tops. I wanted really big, 19th-century looking hardware on it so I just made my own. The blades were purchased already prepared for handles and after mounting the buffalo horn pieces I finished both handles off, as well as filled every last gap, with some melted darkened pine resin which I sanded and polished to a dim gloss. That pine resin concoction came in handy for the handles as well as the machete sheath and worked almost like an old-school epoxy (though it will never hold as tight as epoxy, I am not sure I will really need it to) and it turned out really nice on both. It was my first attempt at handles or grips of any kind and I was pleased with the results but the next ones will be a little better just by virtue of the fact that I am going to be using machined parts for everything.

I also have a handmade 12" long (bladed), 17" long (overall) custom machete that I consider my "main" knife because it is made of a really good carbon steel, is extremely tough and sturdy, and works almost better than my hatchet at chopping. It has a nice point on it unlike most machetes, a very simple axe grind and edge profile so it is easy to sharpen in the field, and it is moderately heavy with a longish handle that curves inward for a really good "hammer swing" type of chop. It is great fun to sling it around at things and I carry it everywhere with me whenever I camp, fish, hike in the woods etc. It's silly to say this but I almost feel more protected with it in my hands than I do when carrying a pistol because of how much fear this giant motherfucker is sure to evoke should I ever have to draw it on someone. I adore it.


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bowie pair + my fav



In addition to those I also have a low-priced (but not cheaply made) 440c, let's call it an "inspired copy", of the LIFE SUPPORT SYSTEM II (LS2) machete designed and made by Jack Crain for the movie Predator. As a product, it is an absolute steal, because these knives were originally made to meet and be sold at the >$150 price range. They were sold as "Predator"-branded collectables. I don't know if you remember but these were the ones that were sold three years ago with Arnold Schwarzenegger's movie character's signature on the blade and "PREDATOR" engraved in the ricasso.

Anyway when the contract (and limited run) of the "collectable" version of the knife ran out, the Chinese company who made them for the studio actually continued producing the knives but now with no Predator branding they instead began selling them under the name "RAPTOR". Oh, yeah, and they cut the price down to around 54 dollars shipped. Nothing was even changed about the already decent build quality, it just lost the engravings that said "PREDATOR". So it really does still feel like a 100+ dollar competent knife because they had to meet that standard of manufacture. It's a rare case of the consumer profiting from corporate fuckery. It's funny, people actually still buy RAPTORs to this day and try and flip them as the "collectable" version at the much higher price, because hardly anyone knows you can get these for so cheap now or even what to look for on the non-licensed version. I even ran across one for sale that had a fucking PREDATOR sticker covering the new logo in the display images lmfao.

I can't recommend this knife enough to both Arnold fans or even just people who want a great machete to toss in their truck or garage. I am probably going to end up buying a few more of them just to have around as replacements, in the unlikely event that one is damaged. It's that good. Just google "Raptor Machete Predator" if you decide you wanna grab one of these. I think BudK has them. Just a warning: Since they are made of a large chunk of 440c, they are heavy.



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brand new RAPTOR machete (with a hideous nylon sheath) - $54 bucks shipped!

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here is the first sheath I made for this knife - a dangler with a four snap keeper. I wasn't happy at all with the fit and finish so I disassembled it to use its panels for something else. This is also before I learned how to stitch.



Lastly, I have another handmade custom, this one based off of the same above-mentioned design. This thing is well crafted, well made, well finished, and the guy making it knew what he was doing so I really don't want to talk shit on him...but at the end of the day, the dimensions are way off, and I have decided to just use this piece as a framed wall-hanger. It looks too good to go swinging in the woods anyway.


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Comparison from Left to Right: RAPTOR, handmade custom, and a real Jack Crain Movie Knife and sheath. The knives created in the 1980s for the film are pretty much priceless these days and I don't think there are very many left


Oh yeah. I almost forgot. I also have an extremely cheap, low-end bowie from BudK. I don't really remember buying it but I think I got it before the others so I could have something I wouldn't feel bad about abusing really hard or even breaking. If I remember, it was just $20 shipped and I was so disappointed with it that I tossed it in the closet and kinda forgot about it. It even has a few cracks from the factory. I feel like I could break this one relatively easily. I don't actually mind cheap knives at all, though, and I will probably still use this thing some day. Now that I have pulled it out of my closet this will probably be the one I use whenever I go on my next camping trip so I can put it through a proper "cheap knife test".

No sheath for this one at all, I threw the cardboard one that came with it in the trash. They called it leather but it was literal cardboard.

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(pictured: the piece of junk...Hey, it'll still cut someone...)


I began the leather work by making some easy things: a tan colored 2" wide belt, 4 belt keepers, a single four-snap D-ring/keeper, and shotgun shell/misc items pouch for the rear of the belt. For those who don't know, duty belts/gun belts are typically worn over a thinner belt which goes through your pants belt loops, and those things in the photo with the two or four snaps are called keepers and they wrap around both belts and snap together in order to hold your pistol, radio, heavy shit etc. in place.

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This was, obvious to people who are not blind, my first ever project. I learned a bunch so it was ok. All of this was indeed cut out of a big panel so I atleast got some practice at belt-blank cutting...which is very difficult without a special tool. At the end of the day, this tan set of stuff still isn't complete yet, but will be finished some day. Wanting to do a revolver holster, clip on sheath for that big D-ring.




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Walnut Set:
This was designed to be a slightly modular set of gear centered around a shoulder harness system that attaches to the belt from behind and the side frontal area like suspenders, where the sheaths and everything can be removed from their backing panels and used in whatever configuration you please. They can be modified to be belt sheaths, danglers, shoulder holstered, everything. This set includes two modular sheaths for the bowie pair as well as a big, thick, wood-core and leather bound sheath for the machete because like I said these are intended to be kept together as a set

This set is Very Lightly tooled with a kind of "crackle" border throughout and two decorative Skull and Flower conchos on the two matching sheaths.

Here is the progress of the knife handles and walnut set you can see the point where the resin was added and polished:


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The machete sheath has holes drilled in back to mount it to a traditional belt loop if desired, but the current direction of this project has this being attached to the belt with a unique "holster" type setup: the core is attached to the front of a long, wide belt loop "panel" by a strap with a hole in the center for a spike nubbin to go through and keep the sheath in place. Rivets will hold the strap to the belt loop panel. The retention strap for the core has been wet molded at a forward canted angle. This provides an ideal center of mass for this heavy ass blade to stop your belt from sagging too much. I am currently looking for smaller spikes to use as the strap rivets but having trouble finding ones that have screws long enough...here is the progress on that sheath:

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(early in the project the thin leather on the original wood core sheath was peeled off - leather panels were then glued on with hide glue and my makeshift "epoxy" resin, also nailed into wood with the resin filling every gap on the edges)

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(back+interior w/leather lining inside, the resin I made is visible, filling the gaps between everything at the top. It is the same all the way around and it worked much better than I anticipated



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(I decided on a nickel spike over the brass "nubbin", no reason other than a style choice. It is small enough of a spike that it won't snag on anything or poke too hard.



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All that is missing is for me to find 6 viable rivets


And finally all the walnut colored stuff together:

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(front pic, back pic - including underarm straps and some miscellaneous straps + two brass rings)


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(close up)


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(pictured empty; as well as still missing the under-arm straps)


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Last things to do on this set: measure those underarm straps I've detached and placed next to their sheaths in the photos, then cut them to size. Find 6 good rivets for the retention strap. Resize the belt 5-6 inches shorter. You want to leave duty belts a little long so they fit nicely over your underbelt, and I like my belt buckles to be fastened at the furthest in hole (last or second to last) so a bit more length sticks out, but the final sizing always comes last for me so it doesn't ruin any other component of the set. And finally, I need to find brass or gold Chicago Screws that have a matching engraved pattern like the belt buckle (need 1 for belt, a few elsewhere on this set.)

__________________________________________________________________________________________


Black:

Finally, I have a plain black Resolene'd pants belt and black waxed 2.25" wide duty belt. I usually prefer 2" wide belts as they can double as a pants belt Or gun belt depending on what you need. However, because the pistol being paired with this belt is a M92 on the right side and it will also have to support the weight of that heavy chunk of metal on the left side...this one is being made as hardcore as possible. Going to add some 2.25" wide panels of ultra-thick leather to the inside of the strap the future, or just an entire extra strap glued and stitched in.

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I already mentioned how I was unsatisfied with the original black sheath I made and so the whole thing got taken apart to harvest panels for use on a smaller piece, which is actually on it's way in the mail to me right now. It is a replica (maybe another "inspired copy") of the hollow handle survival knife from Predator/Commando, so naturally I am going to pair it with its big brother because they just belong together:

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(a remake of my pairing selection next to all the original Jack Crain designed pieces from Commando + Predator)


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(the scrap panels from the original black 9oz thick sheath. I will probably toss all the scrap welts there on the left side of the picture, and re-do them in the new thick 12oz leather I show off below)



As of last week, I got my hands on some very thick leather....probably 12oz or more. I can't wait to move forward with this next sheath, which is a proper remake as well as being made to fit both, just in case (the blades are nearly identical so it's not much compromise to fit both). Currently I am waiting on a special 5-prong stitching hole punch because the pricking fork I have wont even get halfway thru before getting stuck and jammed in the fibers and refuse to budge anymore. A drill press would work good but I don't have one lmao



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(Thickest leather I have ever seen)

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After all these projects are complete, I really really want to begin working with crocodile leather. I added a poll to see what you guys would like to see one made for (if anyone even ends up being interested in this at all) The croc goal may take awhile as I need to finish everything else first but that's what I see on the horizon for myself. After that it is going to be the following: Learning how to do intermediate leather tooling and eventually leather carving so I can make really pretty looking things, picking up some advanced leatherworking techniques that I currently don't have, and just getting all around better at doing this. Some day I would like to forge my own blades and make my own knives from scratch yknow



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The major thing that I have developed throughout this experience is a great deal of respect for tradespeople, both leatherworkers and bladesmiths. These crafts are much more complex than you'd expect once you have gotten yourself into it...I'm still on "Level 1" and its fucking hard. Furthermore, the materials and tools required are extremely expensive. The entire craft has a very unforgiving atmosphere that is not conducive to mistakes and inexperience equals some pretty painful amounts of materials waste and frustration. In addition, the cost of these materials and the time required to make things that look good makes it so that profit margins for leather products are very thin. If you actually do this stuff for a living I admire the hell out of you.
 
Última edición:
Those edges look great, would stab and or butcher things with it.

Do you have an etsy yet?
 
Impressive work (make sure you thank that passing human who served as a hand model in the one picture that was kind of them), but the knife shapes are a little overstated don't you think?

They look like something that would be sold to weebs in a mall shop or like a graphic in a videogame meant to convey that something is high-level gear, and the aggressively curved handles look dreadfully uncomfortable for actual utility use.
Also lots of aggressive finger grooves; I'm in the woods, I'm not letting the authorities tell me where I can and can't put my fingers.

The two knives with the straight handles have such pronounced ribbing I feel like they'd be weird to handle, but I'd take those with me.

After all, what scares me in the woods isn't someone with a fancy weeb blade, it's a shaggy dude whose lifelong knife of choice is a sharpened railroad spike he ground out on some rocks. That's the kind of man you don't fuck with.

The leatherworking is fairly impressive though, the little decorations are what would convince me it was made by an actual professional leatherworker and not a novice. That looks pretty hardcore, it looks like something a cowboy would carry.


And as to the cost, yeah that's really the problem with trades these days. If you're just outright buying materials from distributors you'd better either be a rich person, or be selling your work to a rich person.

I'm no leather worker, but could you salvage leather from other shit? Like thrift store purses or something? I've salvaged wood and electric parts from stuff people are throwing away many times. Consider keeping an eye out, people are probably regularly throwing away recyclable leather you could fuck around with for fun/practice.
 
I hope this thread stays updated, I'd love to see one of site's strongest chums silly little projects as he evolves in his technique and hones his craft. Stellar work so far, you really should consider this as a full-time hobby and try to make money from and/or induct others into it.
 
Even if your work is beginner work, it's lightyears betted than what most people can do. Very impressive!
 
Hey sorry I haven't updated or checked in on this thread in a bit. I have been pretty busy.

Got something in the mail today though. Here it is next to its big brother:

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"Let off some steam, Bennett."

Worked a little on the machete sheaths with that thick ass leather...that shit is fucking hard to work with. Trying out pricking irons (stitching prongs) for the first time...with a channel neatly gouged out for the thread to sit in so it's not just sitting on top of the leather. It helped align the holes too. Looks okay, but leather this thick needs a bit bigger irons than I have, along with with thicker thread. I will make it work with what I got. Been having to resize all these holes one by fucking one so they connect properly...it's a huge chore that just having the proper tools for the type of leather would make a breeze - I guess thats why they are so goddamn expensive. Saves you way more time than you'd think.

The sheath will of course be black in the end and all those blemishes on the face will be masked by the dye and polishing/burnishing of the face. They wouldn't be there at all if I had the right tools. all of it comes from handling the bare leather way more than necessary. I even got a pricking iron stuck, legitimately stuck, in part of it and thought the whole thing was ruined. it would NOT come out. but I got it eventually. you can see the area that is darker at the top was where it got stuck and I had to pull on it and twist it to get it out...lessons learned!

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first attempt at stitching so we will see how it turns out! The welts are already glued to the front face and channeled for the thread.
 
Sorry for the long post and update but I got a lot of cool new stuff. Also updating to highlight a pretty dumb mistake I made that is actually a perfect example of some of the bullshit that can go wrong in leathercraft. I also wanted to write a couple paragraph review of the Commando replica and show pics of a Gift that my custom guy sent me to make up for the last piece not being quite what I wanted.

also got a pretty neat awl too :]

Here is a new awl I got, it has the same diamond shaped profile as the irons have and is straight all the way up and down rather than circular and tapered to a point like my last one. This will come in handy for real

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Most of the black colored stuff laid out here, with some of the more useful scraps to the right:

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Is it just me, or would this titanium stuff pair really well with these knives?
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anyway.

Some of the holes in the pic below (mainly toward the bottom) look a little "off center" but they really aren't, they just haven't been widened as much as they need to be yet from the back side. These were punched through the remainder of the way from the front with my old circular shaped awl so the back holes are a bit tiny and some of the exit points are off center but still within the lines of the front if that makes any sense at all
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Even after dyeing, the large panels still look just a little bit blemished. That's because they have not been waxed and polished yet. the idea behind the finish is that you apply your leather balm and then you'd take this big wide smooth glass burnishing slab and run the edge of it over the surface of the entire leather, so it polishes and flattens out the grain. As a bonus, any heat or friction over something like I think 110 degrees also melts the beeswax in your leather balm deeper into the material and provides a number of benefits. You would do this with a polishing cloth that has a kinda rough weave to it. Compressing leather grain is how you burnish it and get it to have that shiny slick finish you see on professional stuff.

This will also result in the bumpy parts you can see up there on the stitching holes will be flattened out and smoothed down with the thread. I have not gotten that glass burnisher yet but I'll order one eventually. Just kinda keep forgetting since I am not at that stage yet

My other sheaths were not done this way but instead they were just finished with resolene. Both can be done, however, for a really professional and clean look.


On to the mistake I mentioned:


Unfortunately, I am having to re-start the main Predator sheath from scratch. I have ordered fresh panels of leather from my supplier so I can do it right (as of writing this now, they have arrived)

Here is what happened. it's actually something that is very common in Beginner leatherworking. Basically just a mis-measuring, or measuring on the shape of an item alone without taking into proper account what the item will be used for or how the leather needs to behave or be cut to accommodate that use.

As you can see in the picture below, this blade does in fact fit inside of this sheath. It was measured to do exactly that, the panels were cut accordingly, and then every other piece of leather that was needed to complete this project was cut to that same specification. It LOOKS like it's a perfect fit (FYI the extra interior length is completely irrelevant to this story, remember that I made it longer on purpose to accommodate both copies of this knife since one is an inch longer):


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However...

when you start to "unsheath" it, it completely binds up toward the tip. Then you take a better look at dimensions of the blade itself...

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Uh oh.

The funny thing is that I knew it flared out a bit toward the tip. It's one of the main reasons I don't really care for the higher quality metal version as much as I do for the cheaper 440c one, because the dimensions are all just a tiny little bit off of the original on that custom:

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So I already knew it was shaped like that, and I thought for sure that I had accounted for the increase in the width, and was sure that I had measured out my panels and everything else accordingly. Unfortunately somewhere along the lines I just didn't cut properly. It will fit inside of the sheath, but it won't be able to be drawn from it or inserted once the two halves are put together.

Extremely frustrating, but all part of the learning process.

The project isn't a total loss however. It will still fit the other one:
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I could have maybe modified it to accept a wider blade at the top, but that is actually a lot harder than it sounds. Since they were vise-clamped in place for a day, those welts are glued on there STRONG. They can't be pulled off without causing some sort of damage. I decided to just make another one, rather than tear it up or try and make the welts skinnier or cut them out or risk messing it all up more or even just wasting yet another huge chunk of time on this. I'll just make two. The current one will be put on hold so I can reassess everything and re-check every measurement just in case, make necessary adjustments etc. all that crap.

See stuff like this happens when you're learning... Don't even get me started on how unforgiving wet leather is...

Review of the Commando/Predator survival knife replica below. I wanted to review this primarily because hollow handle knives are notorious for being either 100% trash, or kinda decent combat knives and never much more. There really isn't that much of an in-between and these are not the kind of knives you want to use to do heavy stuff on logs like baton the back of it or whatever. no throwing at trunks, etc. On top of that they are difficult to make properly and easy to go halfassed on the construction. They will never be quite as sturdy as a standard full-tang, single piece construction fixed blade knife with scales for a handle, either:


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Some of the features missing from the "original" include the fact that it is obviously made of D2 tool steel instead of HC and is missing the matte finish the Arnold movie knives had. The blade here is nearly 10.5" long, whereas the original is like 8.5" ~ 9.5" or so. No bevels on the cross guard, which is steel rather than aluminum, and there is no grind on the saw back and no edge profile grind on the back of the blade and saw tooth tips. If you're gonna have a knife with a saw back you really kind of want there to be some sort of profiling to the teeth, so that they taper instead of being big and blocky. Ideally, they should be sharpened. All knives with saw backs run similar risks if being used within "critical parameters" but if the teeth are thick and blocky they can become hooked or snagged even worse than usual on materials like flesh, fabric, cord, etc. You don't want your knife to get stuck anywhere, much less the thing that you just buried it to the hilt in.

Luckily this one has the teeth located far down the backstrap so there is almost 6 inches of snag-free Stab available.

The cross guard edges required some light filing to round them over. A small wire disc helped make the knurling on the end cap a little less sharp. Every component is handmade so a lack of "comfort finishing" is common on these "lower" priced overseas customs (I say lower because a USA custom will usually run you >1000$). Other than needing small touch ups, it's really well made and it feels great in the hand. The weight is ideal for a fighter. Cuts fine, holds an edge satisfactorily after meeting with the rope and other basic test items, though I have not beaten the shit out of it. Construction includes your standard tang bolt below the cross guard, with the added bonus of an extended tang that the end cap screws onto. That same cap also screws into the handle itself just like a normal hollow handle construction, though the entire space inside this handle is filled with epoxy rather than the standard epoxy covering the bolt at the top like a majority of survival knives. I don't need a compass in my knife handle anyway. There was no sign of loosening bolts, epoxy integrity issues, or rattling at all following several moderate impact tests. I don't know if I would risk throwing it full force at trees over and over again and wouldn't want to use this for anything but combat but I bet if I did woods stuff with it it'd last longer than the hollow handle builds that don't have all the extra business going on in the handle.

Like I said before, hollow handles will never be as solid as traditional fixed blades, but this one feels as close as can be.

Conclusions: I really like it quite a lot. I am going to eventually grind and profile those saw teeth some day though.

Other than the alligator sheath I mentioned that I'd like to some day make for a (probably) Crocodile Dundee replica and maybe something else if it gets suggested here in the future, I really don't want to have dozens of knives floating around. I enjoy making sheaths for these things but I am not necessarily a fan of "collecting" knives or anything. The main goal was to have one of each size that matched the walnut colored stuff, and then a set of Predator stuff just to satisfy my desire for them specifically. I only really ever use my big ass carbon steel chopper with the curved brown handle in the field because it has a robust axe grind and is easy to field sharpen. also is pretty indestructible.

In any case, my custom guy who made the machete felt bad that I ended up not liking it very much, so he sent this to me as a gift to make up for it:


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I like it. He did a really good job on it. it needs a little polishing but otherwise it's just a basic heavy duty, carbon steel, standard-construction clip point fighting bowie with a micarta grip and a neat little set of machined bolsters+end cap. It has a great handle and is honestly the perfect size for a bowie imo...not too big, but still a chunk with a very good tip. I will post the sheath I make for this one eventually, it's going to have these cool natural striations or stripe like patterns across the front of the leather:

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Kinda hard to see here but it looks pretty cool in person. The stripes have got a lot of depth to them and it's a really nice natural pattern that you sometimes get lucky enough to have on your hides. This leather is just a tiny bit thinner than the last, so there will be two of each side glued together and stitched up with the rest as though they were a single panel. Stacking leather like that is extremely common for things like belts and other commercial leather goods, in order to get that slick topside texture on both sides of your belt or panel or whatever and make it look extra nice. So I will try it here.

This sheath will be a tip-up, underarm/sidebody jacket-concealable type that can also be belt mounted if need be.

Updates next month most likely thanks for reading!

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real quick - before I go, I just got the mail
and got a test piece of Crocodile belly leather to try out see if I like it. It is a little thin but extremely tough. I am likely going to order a backstrap eventually, so I can have a strip with the cool scale horns on it, plus I do want to experiment with both. As I understand the backstrap of croc/gator is insanely thick and rock hard post-tanning. This piece is a little softer but does not tear at all despite being on the thin side

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What do you think: does it match the handle enough to make a spare croc sheath for this shape? I probably will, it doesn't match any of my others.
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For construction, I would wrap it over a thick piece of cowhide with leather glue in between the panels, and stitch through the whole thing effectively 10x'ing the thickness of this hide. Coming soon!
 
Última edición:
I love croc leather and yes it looks great with the handle of the knife.

Yes I love the look of it too, I really can't wait until I find a good backstrap with the scale horns, those just make such awesome looking leather items. Once I eventually get one in I can experiment on I'll know what I am working with - was happy to learn that this piece of belly leather is going to be relatively easy to punch, cut etc. The bottomside of this leather is very much not flat, so I am thinking the best way to use this stuff is to attach it like I said to a cowhide panel. I will have to look at videos of good LWs making gatorhide items to see what they do.

LW basics aside, with exotic leathers it is ALWAYS about how to best maximize the natural pattern or attributes of the leather and get the most out of them. There's always going to be waste left over from your project panels. Anyone can cut out a section of cowhide and make a shape for something out of it, maybe you get some cool natural stripes in the hide or whatever. But exotic leather, even if you're not designing your own items, becomes way more of an "art" type thing. Designing and making all this stuff from scratch really is kind of like a little puzzle if I had to compare it to anything, especially the shoulder rig. like for that I gotta re-do the back panel of it because the shape DOES actually matter, it can't be just a square or diamond at least for my own upper body which is much more of a V shape. It took a couple tries before I actually realized why the bottom straps always refused to cooperate.

It's been slow going lately as I waited for materials but I'll have some more finished products soon
 
Fake and gay. I can clearly see a human hand in several pictures and not a cat paw.


Naw but really, everything looks awesome! Seems you have the basics down pat. I love knives and I'd love to learn leatherworking some day so it's good to know that it's a bit of an investment. Probably something for future me to tackle. :lol: Hope all your upcoming crafting endeavours come out well!
 
Very nice. The larger ones kinda remind me of a modern version of a messer short sword which I have always liked the look of.
 
Few small updates.

First, a quick look at the sheath I am trying to closely approximate for the Commando replica (or even just remain within the style of)...this sheath is the style that was made for all the original movie knives:

original.png
If I was designing my own sheath for this knife, which I eventually will, my belt loop would look much different. even for a dangler style sheath. idk why Jack Crain went with this design. As it stands I am just trying to best copy the original style with my first iteration of a sheath for this knife. The biggest issue is that my crossguard is much wider, so I needed a lot more thickness to my panels of leather. As a result there are two extra layers in some spots...It is going to be very hard to sew in some places...


Here is the progress on mine so far:
sheathjc.png sheathjcpouch.png
Front view. Note the main front panel is pretty dull and unfinished/unpolished looking and some of the smaller pieces are nice and shiny. The whole thing will look much cleaner when done. The red shapes on the second image is the pocket sharpening stone pouch I would like to add before sewing everything up. The three eyelet tabs poking out of the left top side will be shaped a little more uniformly before finishing. They are just a rough cut I made from some leather coming out of the side of the welt.

sheathjc2.png sheathjc3.png
Side Views. Edges are very rough and unfinished at this stage, though the stitching holes are indeed all the way through at this point. just waiting to finalize the rest, make my stone pouch, and sew it up. Next step after sewing will be sanding the edges to a flat and clean looking surface and then adding a little more dye, burnishing and slicking, and finally applying the resolene. You can really see how thick I had to make everything to get past the crossguard here.

sheathjc4.png
Back view - still missing the D-ring. at the tip of the sheath. Dunno how I want to go about doing that yet. The back panel and D-ring panels are just setting on top of each other they are not glued down, and so it is a bit off-center. you can see a clear outline I made below it where I will adjust it to sit inside of when I am ready to glue it down and stitch.




Here you can see the weird belt loop design that Jack Crain went with for all of the LIFE SUPPORT SYSTEM II knives...I chose to make mine sturdier by adding mini welts inside at the top and bottom so it would stay straight, open enough to accept my thick 12oz gun belt, and hold the D-ring in place:
beltloop.png


A better view of the belt loop panels in the light w/o glare. Leather is somewhat finished, resolened but not polished and burnished yet, and I added the future stitch holes and groove locations in Red dots and lines on the right image:
beltloop1.png
You can see the bare backside of this piece that will be glued and sewn onto the actual rear panel of the sheath. The stitches go through everything including the retention strap. You can see I had to redo the holes for it because it wasn't sitting properly when mounted straight up and down. The angle lets it curve over the crossguard and snap on to the front in an aesthetically pleasing way. The entire bottom panel here is just a bolster to add thickness and overcome that fucking crossguard.



The much thicker and improved version of the 2.25" wide gun belt is also finished. It looks like a large twin of the smaller 1.5" pants belt I already finished for this set, lol. Just a plain black 12oz strap that I cut out, edged, polished and did all the holes for+attached all the hardware. You have no idea how hard it was to find a 2.25" wide belt buckle that just looks like a normal fucking heelbar belt buckle !
2andquartergunbelt.png

Here is how the sheath attaches. The welts make sure it fits like a glove and doesn't budge, it really is like perfectly shaped to just "hug" the belt all around. I guess a good design in the end, but still weird - there are just better ways to make a belt loop:
2andquartergunbelt3.png

Finally, I was able to fix the machete sheath. It took a while of carefully removing material on the welts but I did it. I added another welt too, so the back of this one hasn't had the holes punched through from the top yet and is still not straight because it hasn't been sanded yet. But, it fits better now, and works like it should, and the stitching will still be stable on the top where I had to thin the welt sides out:

fixedsheath.png
The stitching holes on the D-ring loop will be cleaned up a bit as they could be a bit more straight in one section. Bottom part of that strap is actually a wide loop for a short firesteel, 4" sharpening rod, or other potential attachment to be added later and I will be adding thigh strap rings toward the middle eventually because this heavy bitch needs a thigh strap (the original sheath has them too)
 
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