Vehicle Maintenace General

[drammamean]

But I haven't seen too many badly rusted 1990s Toyotas or Hondas where I live.

Hard disagree here, bud. 90s Hondas and Toyotas are notorious for rusting in the rear quarter panels. Besides that, how many cars from the 90s are you actually seeing on the roads? They’re almost all junkyards by this point, many of them were destroyed by cash for clunkers. I think this is a case of survivor biase, the cars you’re seeing are just the ones that didn’t rust. But you’re definitely wrong about Toyota and Honda having nailed anti-corrosion back then. And Hondas still have shit paint to this day.

There are like 3 car maintenance threads I really wish they were all merged together.

Anyways I feel retarded. So I was talking about things with someone who happened to own a car with the same engine as mine and we ended up discussing the high fuel prices of late. He mentioned he is putting premium gas in his car and I mentioned that my manual said regular was fine for my car... Anyways I just reread it and realized it infact says "premium recommended plus ok" I have been putting regular in this car for about two years without any issues and my mileage is only slightly below average compared to the same year and model.

I'm questioning if it's even worth it to switch to plus at this point. My fuel level reader is also broken so to get the tank low would be a risky operation in itself.

If the manual says regular is fine you are good. The engine just won’t make as much power.

I highly recommend buying your gas from Shell. Even their regular gas has better additives than everyone else’s, yes, even other “top tier” rated fuels. Particularly with direct injected engines that are not dual injected (it doesn’t also have fuel injectors in the intake ports) it can delay or eliminate the need for an expensive or pain in the ass intake valve cleaning.

I used to work at a shop with a dyno that was also just down the street from a Costco. Whenever cars would ping on the base map while dynonyuning it was because the customer had put Costco gas in it. We’d drain the gas and put Shell in and it would clear right up.

I only run Shell V-Power ( in performance cars that are tuned for “pump gas”).

Also I highly suggest fuel injectors/system cleaner at every or every other oil change for direct/dual injected engines. The only two worth buying are Redline (the best) and Techron (2nd best) to help keep the intake valves clean. Those two of the highest amounts of PEA, the only effective cleaning agent. Most do not have any. Follow the directions on the bottle.

 

[Squishie PP]

For those who have no choice but to use a newer car, this book may be useful: https://ia600106.us.archive.org/17/items/the-car-hackers-handbook/The Car Hackers Handbook.pdf

 

[Google.com]

So I got the HVAC in the saab repaired after spending too much time focusing on the heater core itself I discovered that for whatever reason the HVAC will not activate the heater if a tiny sensor that measures the outside air temperature in the grille has failed.

I have now moved onto smaller things and went to repair the broken rear door window. I figured just the rollers were out and when I opened the door up I found that the previous owner had decided to remove the entire window assembly to fix whatever issue was previously present. And this is not one off thing.

When I went to replace the tailgate springs I found out the metal panels over then were completely gone and the springs were covered in extra grease. I opened up the HVAC mix doors and found that the broken half of the mix arm door was gone and for some reason it too was covered in copious amounts of grease. The turn signal lights had a bad fuse but instead of replacing it there were 8 different brands of the same light bulb for the signals shoved in the glove box.

I am fucking amazed at the intelligence of this previous owner. Specifically the blend doors where the broken part would have fallen out when he took off the cover(which is a long and annoying process btw) and instead of questioning that he would have just thrown it out and covered everything in grease. Of course none of these genius solutions fixed any of the vehicles issues and he just closed everything up perfectly like nothing happened.

There are loose bolts in the engine and I'm really scared to find out whatever genius solutions he came up with in there. But for now I have to source an entire new assembly for the window.

I really can't understand the thinking of this guy

 

[ChompChomp]

I have been putting regular in this car for about two years without any issues and my mileage is only slightly below average compared to the same year and model.

I'm questioning if it's even worth it to switch to plus at this point.

No offense, but are you a woman?

When you change your oil (or have it changed), what do you put in there? What the manual says or what's already on sale?

When do you change your oil? Every 3k miles (10k if full syn)? Why? Because the manual says so? Pfft! I'll bet you could drive 30k on the same oil and not really notice anything wrong!

Finally, an example: cigarette smokers can smoke for their entire life and will start noticing health improvements almost immediately after quitting.

That 87 octane fuel is your cigarette; it's time to kick the habit.

 

[BeckhoffAX5702]

Does Hyundai/Kia's have a diagnostics and information system a home mechanic can aquire? I own a Kia and I would like to understand and fix stuff when they break, but currently its a bit of a black box.

 

[Hantavirus]

All modern cars support diagnostics over the OBD II port usually located under the dash. The cheap Amazon/Harbor Freight scanners will do the basics: read standard fault codes, clear codes to check if a fix "took," etc., but you will need to buy a more expensive scanner if you need to do anything more advanced. Only $300+ scanners will retract parking brakes, do bidirectional testing, read live data, and read non-standard manufacturer-option codes. I do not know about Kia/Hyundai, but many manufacturers require a special software tool to access the really fun stuff, and those are typically either several thousand a year or just plain dealer-only. If you are lucky, there is a free or affordable third party option that is publicly available: FORScan for Fords, VCDS for VW/Audi, FreeSSM for Subaru, and so on.

 

[Day of the Cope]

I swear to fucking god, if the belt tensioner was the reason for my misfires, I'm going to fucking drive off a cliff! Fucking thing is jumping back and forth while just being at idle in my driveway.

 

[Jotch]

fucking god

PDUTFWWTLN

 

[Ibanez RG 350EX]

Has anyone ever come across super bright, almost neon yellow brake fluid? I've seen clear new stuff, somewhat used yellowed stuff, and dirty brown or black stuff, but never this. I initially thought somebody had put some kind of coolant into the master cylinder, but it smells and feels like brake fluid. Could this have been some kind of dye for testing leaks or something along those lines?

Also I highly suggest fuel injectors/system cleaner at every or every other oil change for direct/dual injected engines. The only two worth buying are Redline (the best) and Techron (2nd best) to help keep the intake valves clean.

This is only the case for dual-injected engines, though, as the fuel will never touch the back of the intake valves in a pure direct injected system.

 

[drammamean]

Has anyone ever come across super bright, almost neon yellow brake fluid? I've seen clear new stuff, somewhat used yellowed stuff, and dirty brown or black stuff, but never this. I initially thought somebody had put some kind of coolant into the master cylinder, but it smells and feels like brake fluid. Could this have been some kind of dye for testing leaks or something along those lines?

Sounds like dye but I've never heard of anyone using dye in a brake system. It should be totally unnecessary to find a leak.

This is only the case for dual-injected engines, though, as the fuel will never touch the back of the intake valves in a pure direct injected system.

I still recommend fuel cleaner for direct-injected engines.

 

[Ibanez RG 350EX]

I still recommend fuel cleaner for direct-injected engines.

Yeah, there are other reasons to use it. It just won't help with the build-up on the intake valves. I put a catch can onto my Ford Escape, which collects a surprising amount of nasty gunk that otherwise would've ended up back in the intake - I'm hoping to avoid that expensive valve cleaning job for as long as possible.

 

[Hantavirus]

Has anyone ever come across super bright, almost neon yellow brake fluid?

Per DOT regulations, aqueous brake fluid has to be the typical off-yellow color. Diagnostic help would be my guess as they are not allowed to make it in any other color, unless the color you are seeing is close enough to pass. I miss that blue brake fluid they used to make. Made every brake fluid change a dream; you just kept pumping til the fluid changed color. Feds said you can't have anything nice and shut the operation down. I've always been too nervous to put my own dye in my brake lines. The Mousemobile needs a full brake job, maybe I will look into it.

 

[Day of the Cope]

As much as I can hate the shipping costs on RockAuto, it's better than the fucking highway robbery of most of the parts shops.

 

[BeckhoffAX5702]

@Hantavirus Yep I'm very familar with FORscan and I own a Tech2 for GM era Saab's for my own use and helping out friends/ club members with divorcing/ marrying components and stuff.
I may just bite the bullet and consider adding an Autel scanner for my Christmas wishlist, since it makes more sense to service all the modern cars within my household.
Do you have any pointers for an Autel tool and should I consider a 2nd hand scanner? Are they a life time supported item or do I need a yearly license fee to access advanced features?

 

[Jump]

As much as I can hate the shipping costs on RockAuto, it's better than the fucking highway robbery of most of the parts shops.

Ive already cut my front rotors on my truck up to the min allowed so I finally had to get a new set. Local places $175 each. Rock auto wholesaler closeout $24each plus 50$shipping (-5% discount code).. They are heavy as fuck so it is what it is.

 

[13B-REW Apex Seal]

Are they a life time supported item or do I need a yearly license fee to access advanced features?

You get 1 year free then you have to pay for the yearly license. It's like 1,200-ish dollars, I don't remember the details. But if you don't own anything 2024+ then it really doesn't matter, the updates won't affect you. You can access all the features, the updates are solely for adding the newest model years.

 

[drammamean]

Better stock up on your synthetic motor oils, boys.

The supply chain constraints brought on by the war in the Middle East will have long-lasting impacts on the price and available supply of automotive lubricants—namely motor oil, according to a new report from Automotive News. More specifically, the report currently projects that customers here in the States will have to look towards 2027 before any sort of return to normalcy takes place across the lubricant industry.
The war with Iran has effectively cut off American access to petroleum reserves in the Mideast, which according to the Independent Lubricant Manufacturers Association (ILMA), accounts for around half of all of the Group III base oil we import here in the States. Three companies—Pearl GTL in Qatar, ADNOC in the United Arab Emirates, and Bapco in Bahrain—supply 44 percent of that oil on their own. Group III base oil is, notably, the main ingredient required in the production of synthetic oil, which is a mainstay of automotive modern engines.
Jon Cherry//Getty Images
Not only has the closure of the Strait of Hormuz limited access to this crucial ingredient, but Iranian military strikes on the Pearl GTL facility will leave it operating at half capacity for at least a year. Normally, the U.S. would look to suppliers in South Korea for assistance, as they account for an additional 30 percent of Group III imports; our allies are also struggling to get supply out of the Middle East, however, which is only further exacerbated by 40-year highs on the margins for diesel and jet fuel. Producers are largely moving to sell finished products for high prices as opposed to supplying the lower margin base oils required for motor oil production.
Dealer service centers and lube shops are grappling with an uneasy supply chain for synthetic oils, though massive shortages haven’t arrived quite yet. That said, some brands are struggling to keep enough 5W-30 and 0W-20 synthetic engine oils on the shelf. According to AN, automakers like Toyota and Nissan have started advising their dealers on alternative options for these products. Both brands have even gone as far as rationing their current supply to prevent massive price hikes for customers.
There is no simple fix here. Even if the conflict with Iran ended at this moment, there is still a lot of work to be done to stabilize the industry; AN’s report says it will take months to rebuild our supply to normal levels. Prices won’t drop until the U.S.’s strategic petroleum reserves are also replenished, however, and according to ILMA that will be around mid-2027 at the earliest. We aren’t suggesting you go out and panic-buy synthetic oil for your car ... but it might not be a bad plan to have a few quarts on deck.

U.S. Supply of Synthetic Oils Reportedly in Danger Through Mid-2027 Due to Middle East Conflict

 

[Pee Cola]

Hard disagree here, bud. 90s Hondas and Toyotas are notorious for rusting in the rear quarter panels

I mean if you live somewhere that isn't a frozen wasteland with salt in the roads for 9 months of the year. In those places, even a Volvo or a Saab - both of which made some of the most fit-for-purpose snowy climate cars back in the '90s - would struggle to hold together.

Anyway, as long as the engine and trans are still good, who needs body panels anyway?

Meanwhile, I learned a fun fact about VAG cars the other day. If the engine coolant sensor fails, it'll tell the ECU to cut off the fuel pump. I spent a couple of hours chasing my tail with the usual "air and spark but no fuel" diagnostics. Testing relays, fuel pump, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery etc... until I found a wiring diagram for my car that shows the engine coolant sensor being part of the fuel system circuit for some reason.

At least the sensor itself is easy to get at and cheap to buy, almost as though VW knew it was a weak point...

 

[Jump]

Better stock up on your synthetic motor oils, boys.

I think I have at least 20 cases of M1 8)
Every time BJ's put it on sale for $24.99 a case I would load up. Even if there is never a shortage I will still make out because lately when it goes on sale its for $34.99 and the normal price is now $49.99.
I'm also stacked deep with ATF/gear fluid and consumable parts like tune up stuff and filters. Brake pads, belts etc. Most of the stock is from RA wholesaler closeouts.

 

[Tetragrammaton]

i would highly suggest anybody who works on cars to invest in a bolt extractor socket set like this if you can find a non chinese one thats even better but these sockets have saved me so much trouble dealing with rusted and rounded off bolts and lug nuts especially caliper bracket bolts. you will need to make sure you have a replacement bolt ready since the socket will destroy whatever is left of the bolt but its beyond worth it in my opinion.

what i would love to know is where to get tires online for cheap? the whole tire buying process is annoying and i always hear bad things about even the good tire brands. does it even matter? is some random walmart brand tire just as good as name brand? i mainly just want to avoid spending money on things that are going to instantly fail the second it gets a little too hot or too cold.

As much as I can hate the shipping costs on RockAuto, it's better than the fucking highway robbery of most of the parts shops.

rockauto is great i use them for brake parts and various other replacement things that i have had to fix over the years. in many cases rockauto was the only place that sold what i needed. the shipping can be a bit high at times but honestly its still not as bad as the parts shops. a mechanic at a dealership told me about them and to the shock of nobody he ended up not working there much longer. dealerships are such scams its crazy.