Rock Climbing

[onc]

How does your gyms grading compare to outdoors?

By 3-4 grades, I'd say. I can send a gym 5.12a and an outdoor 5.11b in a couple of sessions right now, while 5.12b/5.11c are long-term projects for me.

Suffice to say I went back to bouldering.

That's why I usually lead climb with someone in the gym first.

I’m assuming you hang board?

No, I don't know where to fit it in my schedule, and even if I need it at my level. My fingers feel sore enough from pure climbing.

The single best thing for hands is the rice bucket

Oh, I had one for years and never made a habit of using it. I gave to a friend, I''ll try to borrow it back

Hand Tendon Glide

Thanks for the suggestion. I heard about it, will try.

you’re doing so much gripping that you need to work your extensors and help your tendons by promoting bloodflow

Since I have your attention, rate my post-climb "cool down", please.

• Landmine Press
• Face Pulls
• Lat Raises
• Tricep Pulldown
• Back Extension
• Wrist Extension
• Stretching

I try to train antagonist muscle to counter climbing loads, plus some extra work on weak muscles and flexibility.

 

[KneeGrow]

Stretching

Fuckin aid climber

That's why I usually lead climb with someone in the gym first.

Yeah, I do so little lead climbing now I genuinely fucked up. That and no climbing gym (too poor).

No, I don't know where to fit it in my schedule, and even if I need it at my level. My fingers feel sore enough from pure climbing.

So I’d have climb days with alternating workout days (last year when I still had the climbing gym membership). On workout days I’d super set hangboard into work outs. So like a set of squats, then a set of hangs. Do 5 sets of 1 minute on each type of hold (doing 3 different holds, so 5 sets of a minute for 3 different ones). I was so proud of myself when I could do a minute hang on a 5 mil.

 

[VeteranOfTheRetardWars]

By 3-4 grades, I'd say. I can send a gym 5.12a and an outdoor 5.11b in a couple of sessions right now, while 5.12b/5.11c are long-term projects for me.

That's why I usually lead climb with someone in the gym first.

No, I don't know where to fit it in my schedule, and even if I need it at my level. My fingers feel sore enough from pure climbing.

Oh, I had one for years and never made a habit of using it. I gave to a friend, I''ll try to borrow it back

Thanks for the suggestion. I heard about it, will try.

Since I have your attention, rate my post-climb "cool down", please.

• Landmine Press
• Face Pulls
• Lat Raises
• Tricep Pulldown
• Back Extension
• Wrist Extension
• Stretching

I try to train antagonist muscle to counter climbing loads, plus some extra work on weak muscles and flexibility.

Looks pretty good to me.

 

[onc]

Fuckin aid climber

Well excuse me, I don't have tard strength to rely on

I was so proud of myself when I could do a minute hang on a 5 mil.

That's impressive. Were your fingers fine? You were basically loading them every single day

 

[KneeGrow]

Were your fingers fine?

Yes. So it took like 2 months of finger boarding before I worked into the 5 mil’s. So I had plenty of time to work the tolerance/strength up. It helped that for most gym climbing sessions I aimed for volume over limit. I climb to have fun (even if suffering and rage is a huge part of the fun).
3 days a week for working in the fingers, 3 days a week of climbing, and a rest day.

 

[onc]

It helped that for most gym climbing sessions I aimed for volume over limit.

I see. I limit climb a lot, so my fingers need more time to recover, I guess.
I don't feel like my finger strength is what's stopping me from sending harder stuff right now, so I guess I can come back to it later.

 

[onc]

Me looking at the forecast for next weekend (it's fucking raining again)

 

[KneeGrow]

I limit climb a lot, so my fingers need more time to recover, I guess.

So typically the way I gym climb is to have maximum fun. So I’ll aim to climb every V1/V2 then jump into max grade and project “interesting” looking problems. Always hunting for the fun movement/maximum effort climbs.

Outdoors, I have a bad habit of going straight to the project with no warm ups. The approach is the warm up. Recently I’ve begun hitting lower grade problems to prep myself, shock I do better on my projects when I do so. Still aid tho.

Me looking at the forecast for next weekend (it's fucking raining again)

Ver archivo adjunto 8888199

I’m pretty sure I saw this on schizoclimbers instagram, you cheeky devil you.

 

[onc]

I’m pretty sure I saw this on schizoclimbers instagram, you cheeky devil you.

That's where I got it lol

Outdoors, I have a bad habit of going straight to the project with no warm ups.

Same. I'm a man of habit, so I do they same warmup routine in the gym, but once I'm outdoor, the routine breaks. I even bring a resistance band and a fungerblock to no avail.

I’ve begun hitting lower grade problems to prep myself

I do that with ropes, as there's almost always 5.10's close to my projects, but for some reason, it's not so easy with bouldering.

 

[TheHarbinger]

Anyone who has HBO should watch The Dark Wizard. It's a documentary series about Dean Potter that has two episodes out already.

 

[KneeGrow]

resistance band

I've recently been waking up (sleep on my sides) with an "ache" in my front delts, wife is bullying me into using resistance bands to help. Gross.

I do that with ropes, as there's almost always 5.10's close to my projects, but for some reason, it's not so easy with bouldering

Bruh, 5.10 is my project

Not sure how boulder fields look out west. Here in the southeast, buddy we are  spoiled. Your V9 project will have a handful of V0 to V3 less than 10 feet away. Fuck I love bullet proof sandstone.

Anyone who has HBO should watch The Dark Wizard. It's a documentary series about Dean Potter that has two episodes out already.

One day I'll check it out, good call and thank you. Would've definitely missed it otherwise.

 

[onc]

Anyone who has HBO should watch The Dark Wizard. It's a documentary series about Dean Potter that has two episodes out already.

I never was a fan of Dean Potter. He always seemed like a selfish dick who used "muh mentals" and "there is darkness in me" as an excuse. That seems to describe a lot of high-profile climbers, though.

Bruh, 5.10 is my project

The stiffness of the grades really depends on the crag. I went to a different area last weekend to climb some 9's and low 10's to relax. but it was hard. The rock there is really crimpy and polished. I legit barely sent a 5.10b.

 

[onc]

Monkey Face in Smith Rock as seen from NW angle. My totally adult mind tells me it looks like a penis, complete with flesh-colored glans.



What's up with you, climbers?

 

[KneeGrow]

My totally adult mind tells me it looks like a penis

Thanks. Now I can’t unsee.

What's up with you, climbers?

Just had two weeks straight of rain down here in the southeast. Been able to climb 3 days in a row since it stopped.

Any of you seen this? It’s about that dad and his kids jug hauling up el cap. Assuming what’s being said is true, that’s all pretty bad honestly.

 

[onc]

Any of you seen this? It’s about that dad and his kids jug hauling up el cap. Assuming what’s being said is true, that’s all pretty bad honestly.

Whoa, I never heard of them. Yeah, the dad is definitely a grifter using his kids to make the name for his family and get some money out of it. I'm surprised he hasn't been banned from Yosemite yet.

 

[onc]

Give your energy to Mr. Climbing Stuff, fellas. I would probably legit kill myself if I couldn't climb anymore.

 

[KneeGrow]

Whoa, I never heard of them. Yeah, the dad is definitely a grifter using his kids to make the name for his family and get some money out of it. I'm surprised he hasn't been banned from Yosemite yet.

Spoiler: This is going to be an obnoxiously spergy reply, apologies

I don’t understand this mindset. I’m autistically obsessed with climbing, but never in a million years would I force my kids to climb. I even have kids harnesses for rope climbing, we tried to see if the oldest (this was like 2 years ago) would like to be swung around in his harness. He did not enjoy it and we haven’t tried since. The idea of dragging them up a multi pitch route is insane to me. It’s one thing to drag them along for a bouldering or single pitch trip and not have them climb, it’s another entirely to bring them up with you while they’re not interested. A whole new level of fucked to do it for clout.

Give your energy to Mr. Climbing Stuff, fellas. I would probably legit kill myself if I couldn't climb anymore.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=mQgwi1xX0L0

That’ll happen when you do team kid dyno’s after you’re 25

 

[onc]

I’m autistically obsessed with climbing, but never in a million years would I force my kids to climb

It's simple. You and the missus are great parents who are not trying to live through their kids or use them for profit. Props to you, for real!