Sewing, Mending, and Tailoring Thread - Necessary skills for putting your anime girl patches on your mallninja gear.

[Puff]

Okay, Kiwis.

Spoiler: Longer version

I bought a full nubuck hide (a suede process, so a full cow hide) with no textile or sewing experience beyond minor repairs, putting on patches, and arts and crafts with my grandma when I was in elementary school. I made what I bought it for (a cover for my fancy new Bible) using techniques for saddle and holster leather which I'm a little more familiar with and it turned out... fine? It was a struggle.
Anyway, I've got this hide and want to use it and no reasonable idea of where to start. I really like the idea of making a jacket, but that seems like a remarkably big project for a first real one, and I'm NOT buying a leather sewing machine, so hand stitching. I'm not a stranger to dumb, huge projects with no experience though, so I could probably manage if there were like resources to get started. I mean I went from no jewelry making experience to doing wedding bands for my brother and sister-in-law in a few months last year, sewing a jacket couldn't be that hard, right?

Tl;Dr:
I've got an almost full 2-3 oz suede hide and nothing to do with it. For those of you without leather working experience it's like purse leather. My stupid brain wants to do a coat or vest despite the obvious problems of experience.

 

[Mr. Confederate Man]

Okay, Kiwis.

Spoiler: Longer version

I bought a full nubuck hide (a suede process, so a full cow hide) with no textile or sewing experience beyond minor repairs, putting on patches, and arts and crafts with my grandma when I was in elementary school. I made what I bought it for (a cover for my fancy new Bible) using techniques for saddle and holster leather which I'm a little more familiar with and it turned out... fine? It was a struggle.
Anyway, I've got this hide and want to use it and no reasonable idea of where to start. I really like the idea of making a jacket, but that seems like a remarkably big project for a first real one, and I'm NOT buying a leather sewing machine, so hand stitching. I'm not a stranger to dumb, huge projects with no experience though, so I could probably manage if there were like resources to get started. I mean I went from no jewelry making experience to doing wedding bands for my brother and sister-in-law in a few months last year, sewing a jacket couldn't be that hard, right?

Tl;Dr:
I've got an almost full 2-3 oz suede hide and nothing to do with it. For those of you without leather working experience it's like purse leather. My stupid brain wants to do a coat or vest despite the obvious problems of experience.

I learned to sew by doing a coat by hand, so nothing wrong with that. Just get a pattern and take it a little bit at a time

 

[Puff]

I learned to sew by doing a coat by hand, so nothing wrong with that. Just get a pattern and take it a little bit at a time

Where does one find decent patterns? Is there like a go-to place online?

 

[Mr. Confederate Man]

Where does one find decent patterns? Is there like a go-to place online?

Amazon has them, along with eBay and such. The coat I made was a Confederate shell jacket using a Timeless Stitches pattern. There also tends to be pattern cabinets at craft stores so you can always try there. My next coat project is a custom drover’s coat that I’m basing on a Folkwear pattern I bought.

Also, to repeat some advice I’ve given earlier, freezer paper makes for great tracing paper so you don’t mess up your master pattern by cutting it up

 

[Sphinctp0ster]

Tl;Dr:
I've got an almost full 2-3 oz suede hide and nothing to do with it. For those of you without leather working experience it's like purse leather. My stupid brain wants to do a coat or vest despite the obvious problems of experience.

Where does one find decent patterns? Is there like a go-to place online?

I encourage you to start with a smaller test leather project first so you can get a feel for the major differences in leather and fabric. I'm saying this as a person that does leather work and owns a suede trench coat. It can be done but it is going to be a long project especially if you're smart and don't try to rush it and accidentally ruin your suede. You can find patterns at stores that sell fabric, some leather stores, and online like etsy or amazon.

Spoiler: The process

First: Take your measurements BEFORE you buy a pattern. You'll use them to make sure you're getting the correct sized pattern because the range of sizes is not standard to the actual measurements. If you can't find a coat pattern, consider a vest pattern and sleeve pattern. Quarter seams are reasonable. Half inch seams would work better with a lining. Leather is happier without a lining if you plan on wearing it in heat or sweating a lot. If you want it for winter use, then you can layer some batting in behind the lining.

Second: Make a copy of the pattern(s) on some butcher paper. Use those for adjustments. Make sure you have seam allowance. You're going to tape it together and gently try it on to see if it fits. Then add strips of paper or cut along seams to modify the fit. Since you didn't ruin the original pattern you can always remake the adjustment pattern. after you have it modified how you like, cut it apart and use the modified pattern to make a new copy. you want non wrinkled/folded paper for when you cut.

Third: You're going to make a cheap fabric version to try on. Why? Because if the pattern had some issues you missed now you can see them and fix the pattern. Do not forget to raise your arms above your head to check the shoulder seam give and stretch. Also don't forget to shove your shoulders forward to make sure you have enough room in the back to sit down and lean forward at a table to eat. If it's too small you'll suffer blood being cut off or seam rips in the suede version.

Fourth: Marking the fully sown fabric version with leather stitching holes. You want the marks to be on the seam, and color the fabric pieces in the exact same spot. You'll do this for every single seam. Then take the fabric version apart and lay it back onto the paper pattern to transfer the marks onto the fabric. These will be the holes you make in the leather to hand sew the finished work together. For the love of fucking god DO NOT try to feed leather into a sewing machine to sew together. There's a reason that leather sewing machines exist. Unless you are a leather business, you will not be buying one.

Fifth: Make sure you TAPE the paper patter to the leather BEFORE punching holes or cutting the seams. You will want weights to hold the paper to the leather when cutting and punching holes. I like to cut out each piece with a quarter inch extra around the seams, punch the holes, then cut the seams to the edge of the pattern.

Sixth: Hand stitch that bitch. I like upholstery thread you can rub with a bar of wax. Saddle stitches will be tight but last the longest. A back stitch will have more give but can cause some warping and stitch ripping, which is preferable to fully ripping the seams apart or cutting off blood flow.

Have fun, and good luck!